- Rant -
New pet peeve achieved !
No Amazon, and countless other sites, when I say 3070, I didn't mean 2070, stop mixing your fucking results.
- End rant -
You're a genius! I can't believe I didn't think of that. If I was feeling particularly sneaky, couldn't I just return the broken one to Newegg and pretend it's the new one? Or are they too smart for that?
As pointed out by others, that's illegal.
And while I don't think they would send the police after you, you'd end up with two PSUs and a suspended account.
That said, even the theoretical scenario I brought up might be against their user agreement. Though proofing that you bought the PSU with the intend to return it is nearly impossible. Maybe you made up your mind and decided to get a higher quality PSU after two weeks. There is no law against changing opinions and taking a seller by his word and use his extended, freely giving return policy.
Edit
Looking more closely at Newegg's return policy, it looks like they could reject the return if the product has been opened and this PSU was vacuum sealed in plastic wrap
That changes things.
First I'd try to find out if the PSU fan is really defective or the unit is just not getting warm enough. Which means having the PSU visible and simulating a high power load for an extended time. I'd suggest running cinebench in a loop for the CPU and furmark for the GPU. But keep a close eye to your system temperatures.
Btw, the mandatory 14 days, no questions asked return policy in the EU is awesome. There are some exceptions of course and they have every right to suspend your account if you overdo it.
Finally find one of the better built cards with close enough price to my local msrp. Was looking to buy a Palit Gamingpro but can't find one on stock.
Would advised anyone with an rtx 3080/3090 to undervolt + oc the card if you have the time. You can match or beat the default clock frequency with less voltage, resulting in less power, lower temperatures and more stable clock frequency.
Only running port royale benchmark so far and a quick and dirty undervolt and got this result.
Default:
Undervolt + oc:
Have to test with control and other rtx titles to ensure it is stable tho.
I've seen the same thing on a 3070, those cards at stock are thirsty, run against the power limit and it takes some undervolting just to get the stock boost clocks stable. To take the 3070 as an example, it would try to boost to 1980MHz (clocks are a bit higher on the 3070 compared to the 3080) at 1,081V which would take it way past the power limit so it just quickly clocks down again, keeping the clocks but undervolting to 0,993V has it stable drawing up to 250W and at 0,981V its finally around the 220W spec nvidia advertises the card as.
Still waiting for my 5800X. My PC is pretty much ready to roll, but I just need that CPU. So frustrating!
That said, I am considering grabbing a 3080 to go with it. A few of the retailers I'm tracking are getting a steady supply of cards in and some are even opening up pre-orders again for waves in the future.
The thing is, do I do that, or wait for some 3070Ti or 3080Ti cards?
I can't really buy a card as the vast majority of sites do 3x plans and I need 4x.
But are we living on the same planet ? Where the fuck do you people find cards in stock ? Or maybe it's just France being under delivered.
Eh, I have seen a perfectly priced 3070 (Gigabyte Gaming OC, IIRC) on Amazon give or take one month ago ! Then I said cool, will think about it a little...
...
...
Yeah, I was really dumb that day.
Hooray, about 1 month after the last BSOD, I've got many in a row last night!
I was playing Shenmue III (I know right?), which I've been playing without issues for a bunch of hours in the past few days already, and boom, all of a sudden BSOD with the reported error: MEMO, which... I couldn't find anywhere...
Anywho, that BSOD didn't even create a dump file, so I don't have more info about it.
After restarting a couple of times (usually Win doesn't recognize mouse and keyboard at the first restart after a freeze ), my best guess was that the most recent Win update messed up something (I updated to 2024 last month, right before the last crash).
While I opened the MSI site to download some motherboard drivers (which were updated just a few days ago, surprisingly for an old-ish board), another BSOD.
Between a blue screen and the next, I was able to install the new motherboard driver, then I proceeded to the GPU ones that I've been neglecting for months.
And it BSOD again in the middle of the installation.
Next boot, the screen flickered heavily all the way up to the Win logo, then it worked fine.
Then another BSOD, then I managed to update the GPU drivers with a fresh install.
Then I just went to sleep.
This morning it booted fine enough.
I updated Win as much as I could, in the off-chance I was on a bad version, and turned it off to work without worries.
I must say: I've never had so much trouble with a PC — EVER!
It kinda feels like all my troubles started when I switched from Intel to AMD, but eh, what do I know.
(In the spoiler below the 4 dumps reported by BlueScreenView, should you be interested in them for some weird reasons)
Code:
==================================================
Dump File : 112520-9546-01.dmp
Crash Time : 25/11/2020 22:44:33
Bug Check String : DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code : 0x000000d1
Parameter 1 : 00000000`00000044
Parameter 2 : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3 : 00000000`00000001
Parameter 4 : fffff807`2421bfdc
Caused By Driver : storport.sys
Caused By Address : storport.sys+1bfdc
File Description : Microsoft Storage Port Driver
Product Name : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company : Microsoft Corporation
File Version : 10.0.19041.488 (WinBuild.160101.0800)
Processor : x64
Crash Address : ntoskrnl.exe+3f5210
Stack Address 1 :
Stack Address 2 :
Stack Address 3 :
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\112520-9546-01.dmp
Processors Count : 12
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 19041
Dump File Size : 397,757
Dump File Time : 25/11/2020 22:45:24
==================================================
==================================================
Dump File : 112520-5484-01.dmp
Crash Time : 25/11/2020 22:47:10
Bug Check String : SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION
Bug Check Code : 0x0000003b
Parameter 1 : 00000000`c000001d
Parameter 2 : fffff801`2bfc7222
Parameter 3 : ffffaf8c`dad78c90
Parameter 4 : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver : afd.sys
Caused By Address : afd.sys+57222
File Description : Ancillary Function Driver for WinSock
Product Name : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company : Microsoft Corporation
File Version : 10.0.19041.1 (WinBuild.160101.0800)
Processor : x64
Crash Address : ntoskrnl.exe+3f5210
Stack Address 1 :
Stack Address 2 :
Stack Address 3 :
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\112520-5484-01.dmp
Processors Count : 12
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 19041
Dump File Size : 401,613
Dump File Time : 25/11/2020 22:49:47
==================================================
==================================================
Dump File : 112520-8984-01.dmp
Crash Time : 25/11/2020 23:10:08
Bug Check String : DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code : 0x000000d1
Parameter 1 : 00000000`00015cad
Parameter 2 : 00000000`00000008
Parameter 3 : 00000000`00000001
Parameter 4 : fffff807`131fea1c
Caused By Driver : dxgmms2.sys
Caused By Address : dxgmms2.sys+ea1c
File Description : DirectX Graphics MMS
Product Name : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company : Microsoft Corporation
File Version : 10.0.19041.630 (WinBuild.160101.0800)
Processor : x64
Crash Address : ntoskrnl.exe+3f5210
Stack Address 1 :
Stack Address 2 :
Stack Address 3 :
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\112520-8984-01.dmp
Processors Count : 12
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 19041
Dump File Size : 505,307
Dump File Time : 25/11/2020 23:12:12
==================================================
==================================================
Dump File : 112520-7937-01.dmp
Crash Time : 25/11/2020 23:15:05
Bug Check String : PFN_LIST_CORRUPT
Bug Check Code : 0x0000004e
Parameter 1 : 00000000`00000099
Parameter 2 : 00000000`001b708e
Parameter 3 : 00000000`00000007
Parameter 4 : 00000000`00000001
Caused By Driver : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+3f5210
File Description : NT Kernel & System
Product Name : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company : Microsoft Corporation
File Version : 10.0.19041.630 (WinBuild.160101.0800)
Processor : x64
Crash Address : ntoskrnl.exe+3f5210
Stack Address 1 :
Stack Address 2 :
Stack Address 3 :
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\112520-7937-01.dmp
Processors Count : 12
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 19041
Dump File Size : 396,263
Dump File Time : 25/11/2020 23:15:48
==================================================
Have you check your cpu temps? Is it fine on load? Maybe try some stabilty test like occt/aida64 for the cpu. I would check the memory as well using memtest86.
Eh, I have seen a perfectly priced 3070 (Gigabyte Gaming OC, IIRC) on Amazon give or take one month ago ! Then I said cool, will think about it a little...
...
...
Yeah, I was really dumb that day.
***UPDATE 1.5 IMPORTANT INFO To clarify for everyone and any one new here the cards affected are as follows re serial number WK39 onwards will have the revised new connector block *UPDATE however some cards may be mixed and still could be on the old connector block even after WK39 WK38...
Why am I not surprised that it's Gigabyte having the issues? Their motherboards seem to be great these days, but I remember that their Vega 56/64 custom cards were a matter of "when, not if" wrt failing. Literally all of them were primed to fail sooner than later.
Have you check your cpu temps? Is it fine on load? Maybe try some stabilty test like occt/aida64 for the cpu. I would check the memory as well using memtest86.
I've ran memtest (and chkdsk) a few months ago, when I had a bunch of hardware issues in a row, and all was fine.
Never stress-tested anything, I'm kind of afraid of frying some components — even more so now with the virus causing limited supply of replacements.
I wasn't monitoring anything when it crashed — and in general I don't monitor (or even really know how).
When it rebooted the first time, I entered the bios and noticed that it was reporting a ~30℃ on the CPU. No idea how quickly it would drop, though, so it might not be a meaningful info.
It's usually fine on load.
The last month's BSOD happened while playing Cities: Skylines, which is a CPU-intensive game, which can become quite a beast with many mods installed. But, that day I had just reinstalled the game, with just a handful of mods.
After that, I've played it for many hours with tons of mods, without issues.
The last BSOD happened during Shenmue 3, in a seemingly random moment.
Fun fact: in the days before I've been fiddling with the visual settings to find a nice spot. First few hours I've played it at 1440p/max, which was definitely too much for my GPU. So the BSOD happened when I was playing at 1080/max, which ran at a fairly stable 45+fps.
The tl;dr is that the BSOD doesn't seem related to the most intensive tasks.
Would advised anyone with an rtx 3080/3090 to undervolt + oc the card if you have the time. You can match or beat the default clock frequency with less voltage, resulting in less power, lower temperatures and more stable clock frequency.
If the problem persist after those updates, quick google about the crashed driver names says they are storage, network and graphics related.
The one common thing is the mobo, so the first thing I would do is check for bios updates and consider that if there are any. Then restoring optimized defaults from bios, and reconfig any necessary bios settings after that. Then I would reinstall the chipset drivers, and then the lan and gpu drivers.
I genuinely don't actually know if the order of driver installs matter these days but back in the day at work I had to clean install one laptop that would freak out if some of the drivers were installed in the wrong order, and would not let me install or uninstall anything after the mistake had already been made. Only way out was to start fresh again. Spend an entire day trying to bulldoze my way through the errors only to end up just nuking the whole OS in the end.
I can confirm with my B450 TOMAHAWK MAX with a Ryzen 5 3600x and 16GBx2 3200MHz XMP RAM that my BSODs stopped when I went back to the latest BIOS before AgesaPI 1.0.0.3ABBA, I was trying to play "The Evil Within" and was crashing every few minutes and once I downgraded my BIOS now I can play for hours without any issues.
For more information see this thread at MSI forums reply #11 which is the advice I followed.
For example, here is the list of BIOSes for my motherboard, I used to have the latest which is 7C02v36 but now I have the 7C02v32 which has the AgesaPI 1.0.0.3AB (not the ABBA)
Chrome when watching videos or doing online meetings would freeze the PC or cause BSODs with reason code "IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL"; again, they are completely gone for me now, hoping some day we can run Ryzen CPUs without this worry.
I have two Ryzen PCs and there has always being this or that, I would expect to give it a year or two and all issues would be gone, well; not so, my next RIG will probably be an Intel, have got enough with BS.
I'm indeed a couple of bios versions behind, that I didn't want to install as long as the system was running fine.
It's not anymore, so it should be a time as good as any to try!
And thanks didamangi !
Didn't think to search by motherboard or that it could have been the bios fault.
I'll also check if the most recent bios fixes the bsod, or might as well try to roll back to the one pointed out in that thread!
KFA2 = Galax. Good enough brand, similar to Palit, Gainward. But not sure about the price for a basic dual fan card.
Don't have any reviews as yet so can't tell about the temperatures or noise.
OK LOL, I've booted it now (after like 2 days I think?): frozen during the Win welcome screen, then once again about 1 minute into the desktop.
Now it does 3 beeps on startup, and black screen.
I'm like, FFS gonna buy a PS5 from a scalper
(Don't even have time to investigate the three beeps, will figure something out over the weekend)
Yeah, the bios that specifically fixed same/similar issues for someone is always a good one to get definitely. I'd personally try it with a newest one first because of other potential platform improvements though.
Seems like the person in that thread was also testing the then beta, now the latest (AGESA ComboAm4PI 1.0.0.6) and had success at the time.
3 beeps looks like a memory error according to AMI bios codes. Have you tried disabling xmp? Might worth a try just running it at non xmp and see what happens. Maybe try reseating the ram as well if you want.
It turns on, fans spinning, lights on, but three beeps and black screen, so I can't even enter the bios to disable the XMP, or try a memtest or whatever.
Whenever I've got some time and I'm in the right mindspace I'll try flashing the bios via USB, then maybe try reseating/moving the RAM (which, tbh, sounds unnecessary? I haven't opened the PC in a few months, and it was running fine until recently).
Worst case scenario, I'll wait for the 3070 to be in stock and buy a fucking preassembled with some proper warranty.
I just bought a 3070 from Overclockers on Thursday - they shipped it yesterday and it's arriving on Monday. I actually can't believe I managed to get one before the bots!
I know I said I was going to get a 3080, but I think the chances of me getting a 4K TV and a 3080 are slim to none, so I will probably stick to playing PC games on my 1080p TV. A 3070, even with ray tracing, is probably a little overkill for that, but at least now I will get to enjoy the benefits of multisampling, and it should make my VR experience even better.
Alas, I'm still waiting for my Ryzen 7 5800X. Scan said I was number 15 in the queue, and they seem to be getting shipments of 30-40 of each CPU and are awaiting a shipment of my CPU this past week which could be coming in the weekend.
So in theory by the end of next week I could have everything I need to get a new PC setup.
Edit: Ring at my doorbell and a 3070 just landed today!
Was ready to buy the LG 27GL850-B for 400 euros. Then Techspot recomended the MSI Optix MAG274QRF-QD. Which is pricier and OOS, like every fucking 2020 products. And has an oversaturation issue. The LG has mediocre contrast, the MSI colors are botched.
Okay then. Fuck everything.
Was ready to buy the LG 27GL850-B for 400 euros. Then Techspot recomended the MSI Optix MAG274QRF-QD. Which is pricier and OOS, like every fucking 2020 products. And has an oversaturation issue. The LG has mediocre contrast, the MSI colors are botched.
Okay then. Fuck everything.
That sucks, though do know that with a calibration tool you can vastly improve a monitor's accuracy. That being said, if it's borked out of the box, I personally don't bother. Especially at 400 bucks, what the hell.
That sucks, though do know that with a calibration tool you can vastly improve a monitor's accuracy. That being said, if it's borked out of the box, I personally don't bother. Especially at 400 bucks, what the hell.
My knowledge on the matter is very limited, as usual, but from what I understood you can't really 'fix' the MSI. You can calibrate it with some external hardware whose name in English eludes me, but for one it's pricey on its own right, I don't have the qualification to use it, and cherry on top : it won't fix colors in games.
From what I gathered with a quick google search, if the color issue bothers you, go for the LG with it's grey blacks, or wait for a manufacturer to release a monitor with the same panel as MSI but who don't botch the job.
It saves me four months of uguu bills, so it's not all bad, but I really would like to experience 1440/144.
My knowledge on the matter is very limited, as usual, but from what I understood you can't really 'fix' the MSI. You can calibrate it with some external hardware whose name in English eludes me, but for one it's pricey on its own right, I don't have the qualification to use it, and cherry on top : it won't fix colors in games.
From what I gathered with a quick google search, if the color issue bothers you, go for the LG with it's grey blacks, or wait for a manufacturer to release a monitor with the same panel as MSI but who don't botch the job.
It saves me four months of uguu bills, so it's not all bad, but I really would like to experience 1440/144.
I sympathize, color calibration is paramount to me, as someone who loves photography and yeah, windows' handling of color profiles is shit as hell. Even with Shadow, I notice the 4:4:2 slight "un-reddening" skew of the image and it drives me nuts.
I'm kind of stunned that there isn't an affordable display in that mid-price range though. Well, like many things nowadays, it'll have to come later. Still, you have a fixed rig, that's not bad!
Was ready to buy the LG 27GL850-B for 400 euros. Then Techspot recomended the MSI Optix MAG274QRF-QD. Which is pricier and OOS, like every fucking 2020 products. And has an oversaturation issue. The LG has mediocre contrast, the MSI colors are botched.
Okay then. Fuck everything.
Something in the range of a r5 2600, 2x8 GB ddr4 3200, b450 board, 500W PSU, 60€ case that is acceptable (p300a), 500GB SSD and a GTX 1650S.
Problem here is: PS5 hits way above that, while costing 150€ less. It's not even a competition.
Building lower budget PCs for gaming isn't great currently until we get new budget GPUs.
Of course consoles are limited in their functionality and console games are significantly more expensive, but their current price/performance ratio isn't reachable on PC yet.
Something in the range of a r5 2600, 2x8 GB ddr4 3200, b450 board, 500W PSU, 60€ case that is acceptable (p300a), 500GB SSD and a GTX 1650S.
Problem here is: PS5 hits way above that, while costing 150€ less. It's not even a competition.
Building lower budget PCs for gaming isn't great currently until we get new budget GPUs.
Of course consoles are limited in their functionality and console games are significantly more expensive, but their current price/performance ratio isn't reachable on PC yet.
Yeah I was afraid of that, I don't fully need a PC right now for other than gaming. But would still have been nice to have a base that I can upgrade but if I can't game comfortable on it for some time then it's a waste. Will wait.
I had a few minutes to spare, and tried moving around the RAM.
Very first try: removed the stick from the first slot -> the PC booted without 3-beeps.
The BIOS warned that something changed, and if I wanted to do any changes. Nope. Exit, auto-restart, and straight to Win!
Didn't have time to test doing anything, but it stayed on for about 5 minutes, without any perceivable issues (and no BSOD!).
Later today I'll try keeping it on for longer, maybe running a game or something, and see if it's stable, otherwise tomorrow I'll bring it to the repair shop.
If it turns out to be the RAM (which, to be fair, the motherboard's 3 beeps were clearly hinting to), then it's a bummer, but on the flip side, I had 2x16, so at least I'll still have a decent amount... not enough to play Cities: Skylines fully modded, but enough for pretty much anything else.
I've also went to look at the original Amazon order when I've bought these sticks, in the off-chance I was still up for a replacement, and I had a laugh.
Scan update on their 5800X CPUs is that they were expecting a shipment last week that didn't arrive. As I'm 15 in the queue, and shipments tend to be 30-40, I'm almost guaranteed one when it does.
When that shipment will arrive is the main question. Literally the only thing holding me back now is that CPU.
Alright, so if I'm running a 1440p/144Hz monitor, which Ryzen am I looking for (I know, they're all out stock anyway, but just in theory):
A 5800x with 8/8 cores/threads or a 5600x with 6/6? I'm kinda gravitating towards the 5800x though since I'm going to have it for the next 4-5 years anyway.
Grabbed Meshify 2. Will probably move my pc in there tomorrow. Also accidentally found myself browsing individually sleeved cables for my PSU. Didn't buy any but it was close. They look so nice, but I don't really even care about that, rather the part where they are more flexible and shit, that would be nice.
But they are a little steep for now, full kit goes for about 100€ here.
Alright, so if I'm running a 1440p/144Hz monitor, which Ryzen am I looking for (I know, they're all out stock anyway, but just in theory):
A 5800x with 8/8 cores/threads or a 5600x with 6/6? I'm kinda gravitating towards the 5800x though since I'm going to have it for the next 4-5 years anyway.
I mean you could ride out the 5600X for 4-5 years a well, you'll just see CPU bottlenecks a little sooner. It wouldn't be anything that would make a game unplayable, but it would be there.
It is the day, friends ! The 3060 ti is rele... why do I even bother
By the way, in the event that I can miraculously purchase a GPU this year, I just checked and have a Corsair RM550x v2 - 550W PSU.
Am I good for every 3000 series card ? Just some ? No card ?
Hey. I want to build a PC but I've never done it before. I'm also kind worried about getting in to it. I'm looking on pcpartpicker build guide, specifically this one here's the AMD equivalent if that's a better option. What I'm thinking currently is grabbing this build and just using my 1060 until the GPU situation is better. Reading a couple comments on the guide, maybe get a better PSU? Good idea bad idea? You have any sick nasty builds you want to recommend? Money isn't really an issue but I'm okay on any gold plated GPUs or anything too crazy. Is there a good time to wait to pick up parts (I.E near Christmas)? It's mainly going to be used for gaming. Would be nice to be able to finally put a game on ultra.
I'm currently have two monitors connected to my PC. Both 27 inch one at 1080p and the other at 1440p. The 1440p is the one I will be gaming on.
Blu Methink you should start by telling us what your resolution of choice will be.
Having braved my irrational fear of thermal paste this year, I can confirm that there is nothing to be afraid of when building a PC.
Scan just emailed to say they think my 5800X isn't going to arrive until December 22nd. RIP.
Hopefully that's just a case of under-promising and over-delivering, but at this point I am not hopeful. It's annoying that this CPU is getting the short end of the stick, whereas they've had loads of deliveries of 5600X and 5900X CPUs.
I just realized something. Every reviews say the LG 27GL850-B has mediocre contrast, leading to grey blacks. Well, ok, but what about my actual screen, maybe it's shit too and I should stop giving a fuck about this issue.
Turns out the contrast of the LG (IPS) is 735:1 and my Iiyama B2712HDS (TN) is 830:1
And I can't say I was ever vowed by the black on it.
So eh, still don't know, lower but not so far apart. I think I will gain more than lose, what do you say ?
Ok, I think I will aim for a 3060 Ti today, fail miserably, then give a serious look at purchasing the LG.
Chicken and egg situation anyway.
RPS
'As a result, Nvidia have raised their power supply requirements for the RTX 3060 Ti to 600W this time round, rather than the 500W / 550W rating they recommended for their RTX 2060 predecessors.'
It is the day, friends ! The 3060 ti is rele... why do I even bother
By the way, in the event that I can miraculously purchase a GPU this year, I just checked and have a Corsair RM550x v2 - 550W PSU.
Am I good for every 3000 series card ? Just some ? No card ?
As much as the price point of the 3070/80 dissuaded me, the 3060ti was interesting! I may try to build something low-end if I manage to finally move to escape the coming hell of noise. But yeah, I'm absolutely stunned that scalpers seem to be such a huge problem now. The gen before it was bitcoin miners, which puzzled me a bit because as far as I know, they use custom-made hardware by now.
Seems nvidia just screwed up production or something, I'd love to hear what is actually going on, the actual and reasonable explanation. Are these cards' silicon so hard to put together? Lots of defects?
I think reason will prevail and I will settle for the LG 1440p.
It is true that with my 2060 super I won't be able to push the latest games to their very limit, but the GPU situation is just ridiculous. Nvidia can tout their 400 euros price point all they want, the reality for me is that at best I will be able to buy a pricey third party card and will need to change PSU.
I have more leeway these days, as shown by my constant questions here (sorry again) but I don't shit them every day either.
It is true that with my 2060 super I won't be able to push the latest games to their very limit, but the GPU situation is just ridiculous. Nvidia can tout their 400 euros price point all they want, the reality for me is that at best I will be able to buy a pricey third party card and will need to change PSU.
I have a 2060 with 1440p/144Hz and it's fine.
Yes, I don't really reach 144Hz in demanding games but even at 6o or slightly above (or below) it's a massive improvement over a display without VRR.
The display will also last you for a long time, and by the time you upgrade your graphics card you'll get more power for less money than today (ideally) and will likely still be using the display for a long time.
Even if you do end up upgrading your display to 4k or whatever, you can keep using it as a great secondary monitor.
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