|OT| The PC Hardware Thread -- Buy/Upgrade/Ask/Answer

[Copons]

Roughly a week after the whole GPUcalypse and me burning out of hardware, let me ask some actual proper questions about what happened, because I'm clueless but y'all probably aren't.

Recap of the last 12365465 episodes

Before: I had a fairly old rig (i5-4440, GTX 780, PSU XFX 80+ bronze 650w). It was working fine.
After: I upgraded to a Ryzen 3600, mobo Tomahawk Max, 2080 Super, and some Corsair LPX RAM.

It worked for a few days, then it wouldn't boot anymore.
The mobo beep code seemed to complain about the GPU, but I tried it on the old rig, and it seemed to work fine.

I've replaced mobo and CPU, and everything worked fine, finally.

Latest episode

In fact, the new rig was working almost fine.
Sometimes it booted to a black screen, requiring me to restart to get a video signal. Sometimes it booted to the wrong resolution, just to switch to the correct one after a few seconds in Windows.
Since everything else was satisfying (especially the in-game performances, e.g. with RDR2 at 4K@30fps at almost max settings), I blamed it all to the fact that I didn't reinstall Win after changing from Intel to AMD etc.

Aside those issues, I really had no reasons to doubt my GPU.
Until at some point, while scrolling Twitter, I noticed that some videos were showing odd artifacts.
I investigated it a bit, and figured that MP4 files were pixelated and pink/blue/purple, while WEBM were very trippy.
I've only grabbed a screenshot of the Steam Sale homepage (a WEBM), and unfortunately I can't find any screens I've grabbed of the broken MP4 files.

Trippy version:

Original for comparison:

Even so, I blamed it to Chrome, or some broken Win codecs.

Until, after about 20 hours into RDR2, it crashed with the infamous ERR_GFX_STATE code, which, according to Rockstar and the internet as a whole, can mean anything or nothing at all.

I tried all the known workarounds, reinstalling the Nvidia drivers from scratch, and I've even reinstalled Win for good measure.
RDR2 kept crashing (always), and MP4/WEBM files kept being broken (often but not always).

At that point, I tried some other games:
Metro Exodus: never tried before, crashed with DX12 (for the raytracing stuff), worked with DX11.
The Outer Worlds: never tried before, crashed with DX12/Vulkan, worked with DX11 (I think? I can't really remember this test, but I'm sure it crashed on load)
Civ 6: played for countless hours, up to a week before, crashed with DX12, worked with DX11.

Tried reinstalling the drivers one more time, then removed the 2080 Super, and tried with the old 780.
The 780 doesn't support DX12 for realsies, so I couldn't do a proper 1:1 comparison.
But of course, everything worked fine. Even RDR2.

Tried again with the 2080 Super (just in case), and of course everything crashed again.

So, I've sent the 2080 Super back to Amazon (bless Amazon and its no questions asked replacement policy), and at the moment I'm playing with the 780 (which is super sad after trying 4K freesync ) and waiting for getting the big bag of cash back into my bank account.

In the next episode

The initial plan was to just stop buying shit and be content of what I had.
That didn't last long!

But before I try to buy a new 2080 Super (I'm looking at an MSI, which is the same model I've replaced, and a Gigabyte, both at an appropriate price point), I need to be 100% sure it was an actual GPU problem.

Could it be a RAM issue? The Corsair I bought needs to enable the XMP profile to run at full speed (3200) on my mobo. Could it cause any issues?
The PSU has seen better days: a few months ago I've had to open it because a cable inside was touching the fan. Aside from that I've had literally zero reasons to believe it's failing. Like, the PC never shut down unexpectedly and whatnot.

Is there any way that I was running RDR2 at... more than what my system allowed... and so I blew up something?

Do y'all have any tests to recommend that I can use to double check my components?

 

[Parsnip]

From that read it really just sounds like a bad gpu. The fact that you are not seeing any of the issues with the old one definitely makes me lean there.

 

[gabbo]

<Heavy is the GPU that can't play a round.>

If you want to be sure it's not RAM, and you have an entire day where you do not need the pc at all, memtest86 will either eliminate it as a cause or provide proof.
Otherwise, It sounds like a bad gpu, given your update. Did you try the card in different pci slots (assuming the Tomahawk has more than one appropriate for it)? That would be my last real test, if it's bad in more than pci slot, then it's likely the the gpu at fault.

I'd give that a go before trading the card if you haven't already

---------------------

I have a somewhat pc hardware related question for yee of the metacouncil.
Am looking into getting a new router, as I do believe the one I have now is starting to run into issues (disconnecting multiple times a day,multiple days a week at random) and am hoping there might be some advice on what model of wifi router I should look into.
Current router was given/lent to us by my now-father in law when we moved into our current place.

My wife and I live in a small apartment and I don't need one of those Asus routers that looks like a headcrab from halflife that'll run me $600CAD
We've got 4 pcs - 2 laptops, my desktop, and an htpc that is basically a 2nd desktop, an ipad, 2 phones, 4k smart tv
Now mind you at any one time, we'd likely have maybe four of those devices connected at max, but it can get higher, especially if there are guests.

Suggests for a budget that would top out at $200?

 

[low-G]

The PSU has seen better days: a few months ago I've had to open it because a cable inside was touching the fan.

Do y'all have any tests to recommend that I can use to double check my components?

If I were you I'd look into replacing that PSU, if it's not a budget buster.

When I first got my 2080 I had all kinds of strange technical problems. Tried everything.

I ended up upgrading the entirety of my PC around that, i5-6600k to i9-9900k, new everything including a new PSU except the GPU, RAM, and some disk drives.

Why should there be glitchiness in the behavior of my GPU when upgrading CPU & mobo? (I agree it's barely possible) But the PSU was the most likely component. Won't ever be able to know for absolute certain...

 

[Parsnip]

That's also true. PSU can cause all kinds of unexpected issues, and it's certainly the cheaper investment.
The part where DX11 games and renderers seem to work just fine but DX12 is a no-go is really weird. Like do the lower level API's touch some part of the system that DX11 doesn't? Puzzling.

 

[Copons]

Thanks for the answers y'all!

If you want to be sure it's not RAM, and you have an entire day where you do not need the pc at all, memtest86 will either eliminate it as a cause or provide proof.

Yeah I should definitely run memtest.
It would be funny if it turns out the RAM is broken too, and I end up replacing 4 out of 4 components I've bought to upgrade my build.

Otherwise, It sounds like a bad gpu, given your update. Did you try the card in different pci slots (assuming the Tomahawk has more than one appropriate for it)? That would be my last real test, if it's bad in more than pci slot, then it's likely the the gpu at fault.

I'd give that a go before trading the card if you haven't already

I've already sent it back to Amazon, in a moment of despair/anger/frustration.
I haven't tried the second slot for two major reasons: the old 780 is working fine on the main slot; I'd need to remove the metal covers on the case to make room for the gpu ports, which I'm not super keen as they are not replaceable.

If I were you I'd look into replacing that PSU, if it's not a budget buster.

It's not a budget buster per se, and also I wouldn't mind swap the old octopus with a modular PSU.
Still, that would be a bit of an unplanned expense, especially if I don't have any proof to justify it.
Aren't there any PSU tests I can try?

That's also true. PSU can cause all kinds of unexpected issues, and it's certainly the cheaper investment.
The part where DX11 games and renderers seem to work just fine but DX12 is a no-go is really weird. Like do the lower level API's touch some part of the system that DX11 doesn't? Puzzling.

I was blaming some kind of driver weirdness, but after reinstalling the whole damn OS I'm kinda sure it wasn't the case.

 

[fantomena]

Sparing money to build my next PC. Currently got about 3,3k standing ready, but I don't think I need that much as I will probably just go with the 3080 if the 3080ti is gonna be about the double price of a 3080.

Otherwise Im going for this cabinet: Corsair Graphite 760T Big Tower Sort - Big tower

Im going for the biggest cabinet there is and "big tower" is apparently the biggest.

Other than that, I will probably get this (but not sure): Corsair Force Series MP510 960GB M.2 SSD - SSD M.2
Don't know much about m.2 ssds.

Otherwise, I will be waiting for Intel and AMDs next flagship CPU and Ampere before I build it.

 

[killertofu]

I'm trying to build a new computer but I don't know what to do with my old one.
Its a Fractal Node 304, 3570k, GTX670, 16GB of RAM. Would anyone even buy this? And how much should I charge?

 

[Copons]

So, folks, I'm looking around for the new PSU.
650W minimum, 80+ Gold, and modular.
It needs to power a Ryzen 3600, a RTX 2080S, an SSD (old school one) and an HHD. (I've also got a DVD drive, but I don't think I've ever really used in the last thousands years. )

On Amazon UK the cheapest one is the Corsair TXM (semi-modular, 650W for 75£, 750W for 80£), or the Corsair RM (full modular, 650W for 83£, 750W for 92£). Are these good enough?

There are also some similarly priced be quiet! and Antec, but only sold by third parties, which I'd avoid as I'd rather have the super quick, no questions asked replacement/refund policy from Amazon proper.

I've never owned a modular PSU, so I'm wondering: does the full modular justify the ~10£ more?
I mean, it's not like I won't power the motherboard...

 

[curi0usBystander]

I need some recommendations, my current headphones (HyperX Cloud) are getting old and starting to break.
I'm mostly looking for something similar (or better) and that it doesn't feel too tight.

I've never owned a modular PSU, so I'm wondering: does the full modular justify the ~10£ more?
I mean, it's not like I won't power the motherboard...

It depens if you care about having unused cables inside the case or want to use sleeved cables or stuff like that.

 

[Copons]

It depens if you care about having unused cables inside the case or want to use sleeved cables or stuff like that.

Yeah but I mean, as far as I can see, the non-modular cables in a semi-modular PSU are "required".
E.g. in that Corsair TXM I linked, if I'm not mistaken, the fixed cables are the mobo and CPU ones, which I'm pretty sure I'll have to use anyway.

But I guess what you mean is that folks might want to use custom cables and whatnot, so having some fixed cables is not going to cut for them.
I'm not into customizing the innards of my PC, so I should be cool with a semi-modular.

 

[curi0usBystander]

But I guess what you mean is that folks might want to use custom cables and whatnot, so having some fixed cables is not going to cut for them.
I'm not into customizing the innards of my PC, so I should be cool with a semi-modular.

Yes, that's pretty much what I meant.

 

[Parsnip]

Corsair's PSU's are good in general (I think Seasonic manufactures them?), so you are probably good to go with any of them, just find one that fits your specific power, acoustics and budget needs.

I have the RMX 750 myself, it's nice and silent. I had the 650RM from the old RM series for 6ish years before, and even though it was more of budget PSU, it was still great. And before that I had HX520, I think. That one is still in use on my mom's PC, though I'll probably retire it soon though since it's about 10 years old now and move the 650RM there.

 

[Kuro]

Searching on PSU tier list is usually good way to confirm. Corsair and Seasonic as brands are mostly solid.

[EOL] PSU Tier List rev. 14.8

PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.8 (END OF LIFE) Last Update: 27-07-2021 Legend : Gray - EoL/obsolete and/or otherwise not recommended for purchase. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (includes requirements for blue ...

linustechtips.com

Getting the hardware fever lately, want to upgrade my i7-6700K to Ryzen 4000-series when those come out, no real reason why just because I got the fever.
Would also serve as good spot to upgrade to m.2 SSD. Why though

 

[sprinkles]

I just ordered the final parts for my new PC build (Ryzen 3700x and a modular 650W bequiet PSU). Got a 40€ off deal, waiting a few weeks paid off. So next weekend will be building time, how exiting!

I will salvage the RTX 2070 from my old PC. The 3570k and 8GB serviced me 7 years and a few weeks. Only upgraded the AMD 7950 to a Nvidia 970 and then to the 2070. Build cost in January of 2013 was around 1100 €, great value!

I'll probably still use that machine as a backup hooked up to the second TV. Gonna figure out if I put my old, fan-broken 970 back in there or use the onboard Intel-GPU.

 

[Li Kao]

Starting to think/fantasize about my next upgrade.
Last year I have gone from a 2500k 8go DDR2(?) with faulty Intel mobo to a Ryzen 2600x 16go DDR3(?) and a b450. I think, going by memory.
And I'm still rolling a GTX 970 and a Iiyama Prolite B2712HDS.

The next step will be GPU or Monitor, and going by GPU prices, let's talk monitor.
What's a solid recommendation ? The thing should be 1440p capable, but above all be 120hz+ and with Gsync thingamagic.
Basically, I want a better res but I want lots of fps even harder. As I have always gone with 60hz displays, I hope better fluidity will help motion clarity.

Edit - Good God some prices... maybe I should target Freesync ? But then again, that means dropping RTX support ?

 

[ISee]

Starting to think/fantasize about my next upgrade.
Last year I have gone from a 2500k 8go DDR2(?) with faulty Intel mobo to a Ryzen 2600x 16go DDR3(?) and a b450. I think, going by memory.
And I'm still rolling a GTX 970 and a Iiyama Prolite B2712HDS.

The next step will be GPU or Monitor, and going by GPU prices, let's talk monitor.
What's a solid recommendation ? The thing should be 1440p capable, but above all be 120hz+ and with Gsync thingamagic.
Basically, I want a better res but I want lots of fps even harder. As I have always gone with 60hz displays, I hope better fluidity will help motion clarity.

Edit - Good God some prices... maybe I should target Freesync ? But then again, that means dropping RTX support ?

irrelevant correction

i5 2500k is using ddr3, 2600x is using ddr4. Not that it matters or anything.

FreeSync vs GSync and the problem you have

FreeSync now also works with Nvidia, starting with the GeForce 1000 series of cards. There are some differences between both of those technologies and you have to be a bit more careful when choosing a Free-sync Display, as quality and more importantly refresh range varies from product to product. While Gsync will always give your the 30Hz+ experience.
Still, a good FreeSync Display is considered to be practically on paar with a GSync one. It will also always be less expansive and most importantly a FreeSync display will not lock you down on your future GPU choices.
Which brings us back to your 970, which does not support FreeSync. It could do so, Nvidia just decided that it shouldn't.

1440p, high refresh rate in general

I'll make it quick: Your GPU does not have enough power, nor the amount of video memory for 1440p, unless you only want to play esport or indy titles. Even then: The GTX 970 has a very weird memory layout of "faster" 3.5GB and "slower" 0.5GB and using the full 4GB of VRAM comes with a performance penalty. (It's not really faster/slower but the way it is connected to the GPU is different)

1440p seems to be doable on 6GB cards, I'd still recommend getting 8GB just to be safe in the future as some games have started to exceed 6GB at 1440p. You can always drop things like texture or shadow resolution to minimize memory usage but as you want to play on a higher fidelity display: You also want your textures to look more crispy.

We are getting a new generation of Nvidia GPUs this year. I don't know when, they are probably still at least 6 months away. AMD will also launch new GPUs with ray tracing support on a hardware level.

Be careful when researching those new GPUs: There are some ridiculous performance claims about them already. But that's the world we live in now: Rumors turn into feelings and become facts. Click-bait is the way to write articles.
70% more power efficient rumors = Guaranteed 70% performance out of the box, for 70% lower cost and 70% lower heat generation. Those RTX 3000 series cards will be miracles.

Anyway, I hope I gave you all relevant information so you can make a decision.

 

[Li Kao]

About the correction : Thank you, I always mix my DDR.

Now then I never dreamed of running things at 1440p with my 970. I thought I could play recentish games at 1080p and as you said indies and older games at 1440p. The problem is that I absolutely don't have the funds to buy both a monitor and a GPU, and I must begin with one of those. I could maybe start with the GPU when the new gen is announced.
Now that I think about it, it probably makes more sense to first buy a GPU that can output far better things than your monitor, than buying a monitor that won't be able to output the best it can because of a lacking GPU.

 

[didamangi]

About the correction : Thank you, I always mix my DDR.

Now then I never dreamed of running things at 1440p with my 970. I thought I could play recentish games at 1080p and as you said indies and older games at 1440p. The problem is that I absolutely don't have the funds to buy both a monitor and a GPU, and I must begin with one of those. I could maybe start with the GPU when the new gen is announced.
Now that I think about it, it probably makes more sense to first buy a GPU that can output far better things than your monitor, than buying a monitor that won't be able to output the best it can because of a lacking GPU.

If you do decide to search for your new monitor later, these are some reviewers I can recommend.

TFTCentral - Monitor reviews, articles, information and news

TFTCentral offers monitor reviews, articles, information and news. The largest dedicated monitor site on the internet.

www.tftcentral.co.uk

Monitor Reviews

332 Monitor reviews. Start with our picks for the best monitors below. These are the ones we recommend based on our testing and in-depth monitor reviews.

www.rtings.com

Hardware Unboxed

We test the latest and greatest PC hardware and games on release day so you can get the scoop!

www.youtube.com

If you're going the freesync g-sync compatible route make sure you search the web for user experiences that the monitor works with gsync and doesn't suffer from flickering, ghosting, etc. Lots of freesync monitor (especially older ones) have this problem.

Nvidia also has this G-SYNC Compatible list.

 

[ISee]

Now that I think about it, it probably makes more sense to first buy a GPU that can output far better things than your monitor, than buying a monitor that won't be able to output the best it can because of a lacking GPU.

That makes sense to me too. Problem is that many, nicely priced cards that are pretty okay at 1440p only have those 6GB of memory. As said, that's not the end of the world, but most people want their GPUs to hold for 3ish years and it is really hard to recommend 6 GB for that resolution with 3 years in mind. (imo)

Your cheapest new option with 8 GB would be a RX 5700 (non XT). It's a pretty powerful card, but there are so many people complaining about driver issues with AMD on all kind of forums. The majority of people seem to be fine, but there is still something going on. There are enough reports to make me a bit worried.

The next best option is the 2070s, which is a strong card for 1440p. But it is also expansive.

Then there is the used market, 1070Ti, 1080, 2070 (non S) have both 8GB of vram and are nice upgrades over your 970.

 

[madjoki]

Now that I think about it, it probably makes more sense to first buy a GPU that can output far better things than your monitor, than buying a monitor that won't be able to output the best it can because of a lacking GPU.

Yeah, I came to same conclusion before buying 2080 for 1920x1200p60. (would've gone 2070 super, but 2080 was just 9€ more and even with worse cooler could have only saved 50€)

Sadly monitors are still on bit of expensive range. But I guess that's the cost you have to pay.

Been thinking of this:

[404] Sivua ei löytynyt

www.verkkokauppa.com

Everything else seems to be either ~75hz or sub 1440p or VA.

Feels bit expensive tho, as I paid 250€ for my current monitor about 8 years ago,
I think it was one of good monitors of it's time. (Dell 2412UM).

 

[didamangi]

Yeah, I came to same conclusion before buying 2080 for 1920x1200p60. (would've gone 2070 super, but 2080 was just 9€ more and even with worse cooler could have only saved 50€)

Sadly monitors are still on bit of expensive range. But I guess that's the cost you have to pay.

Been thinking of this:

[404] Sivua ei löytynyt

www.verkkokauppa.com

Everything else seems to be either ~75hz or sub 1440p or VA.

Feels bit expensive tho, as I paid 250€ for my current monitor about 8 years ago,
I think it was one of good monitors of it's time. (Dell 2412UM).

Yeah, a good 34" 1440p ultrawide is still very much in $1000 upwards range. A good 27" 16:9 144hz+ is half of that or even less.. (LG 27GL850 or Asus VG27AQ for example)

 

[madjoki]

Yeah, a good 34" 1440p ultrawide is still very much in $1000 upwards range. A good 27" 16:9 144hz+ is half of that or even less.. (LG 27GL850 or Asus VG27AQ for example)

Yeah those two are my options for if I decide to wait and go non UW.

 

[Maneil99]

My Dream next monitor would be:

• Gsync
• Real HDR - Unlikely
• 240hz
• 1440p
• IPS 1 MS w/good contrast
• Under $1000CDN

Currently have the Dell SG27XXX and it's pretty good, but looking over to my LG C8 when having friends over to play Cross-Play COOP games, it's remarkable how stark the difference is.
For all the settings cranked up on a 2080ti games look far less remarkable than on a XBX with a OLED. Really wish we got some real HDR on PC monitors.
Plugging into the TV can be annoying

 

[ISee]

My Dream next monitor would be:

• Gsync
• Real HDR - Unlikely
• 240hz
• 1440p
• IPS 1 MS w/good contrast
• Under $1000CDN

Asus PG35VQ

Gsync: Gsync Ultimate
HDR: 1000nits with 512 local dimming zones
240Hz: 200Hz, close enough imo
1440p: even better, 35", 3440x1440 ultra wide
IPS, 1ms, good contrast: 2ms, 500k:1 ratio
under $1000: 2740€ in my part of the world


Just posting because that's my dream monitor. It's just to expansive for normal people.
But things will go down in price, as always. It's just a matter of years now... lol

 

[Mivey]

For all the settings cranked up on a 2080ti games look far less remarkable than on a XBX with a OLED. Really wish we got some real HDR on PC monitors.
Plugging into the TV can be annoying

There's some recent news about miniLED monitors, with over 1000 zones of local dimming. While certainly super expensive (would be surprised if those were under 2K, honestly), it's still cheaper than waiting for OLED monitors.

The long term future is something that's called "microLED", while it sounds similar to miniLED above, it's essentially a radically different design: No backlights, instead each pixel is self-emmissive, a tiny LED of its own (technically three, since you want RGB ). This gives you not only the same perfect contrast that OLED has, it also means you can get even brighter, up to 5000 nits, which I assume would be like having a projector shining in your face.
Another advantage, on the production side, is that once you can manufacture microLED on a small enough scale, one could use those same displays to form displays of any size, using the same production line. This is not possible with current backlight + LCD monitors.

The downside is that microLED is currently limited to larger displays. I think something like 80 inch is the smallest we can go right now. Price is also another issue, but nohing you can't improve with mass production. But it's only a question of time, really, until microLED will replace everything else.

 

[NarohDethan]

Should I start buying part by part

 

[ISee]

Should I start buying part by part

Depends on the time frame. A month? Sure.
Half a year? rather not unless there is an extremely good deal.

 

[NarohDethan]

Depends on the time frame. A month? Sure.
Half a year? rather not unless there is an extremely good deal.

I won’t, then u_u

 

[ISee]

I won’t, then u_u

We are getting new toys this year: CPUs, Mainboards, and GPUs.
Could take longer then six months for them to arrive, but unless you are building now I'd wait before buying. Prices for current stuff will either fall or you'll get more power for the same price.

 

[ISee]

Finally was able to re"furbish" and rebuild my damaged system. Had to get a new Mainboard, new CPU, new CPU cooler, new case, GPU is luckily not dead (yet) but I had to replace the fans.

The P400a is a pretty awesome, smaller case, but finding place for 5 SATA drives and manage cables for 9 fans is pretty tricky. I eventually ran out of space and ways to hold cables. Mostly because ofn those thick SATA cables (needed three of them).

Temperatures are pretty okay during gaming: 65-66°C on the GPU and 40-50°C on the CPU.
The System has 5 Industrial Noctua and 4 normal Noctua fans running at ~40%. So it's not completely silent, but pretty okay with headphone. More silent then my PS4P for sure.

Looks wise, I really like it. But I'm also strange and do not like RGB. As long as airflow is awesome and cables managed I'm happy.

Currently testing if the lower fan is even necessary.

 

[Stevey]

Ordered a new soundcard.

Sound Blaster Z

 

[gabbo]

Ordered a new soundcard.

Sound Blaster Z

Have that same card. My sound improved quite a bit.

 

[Stevey]

Have that same card. My sound improved quite a bit.

Nice.
I had a soundcard in my last PC, but have just been using onboard this build so far.

 

[Durante]

I'm using a USB sound box since I don't have the PCIe lanes to spare for a soundcard (thanks Intel consumer platform )

 

[Stevey]

I'm using a USB sound box since I don't have the PCIe lanes to spare for a soundcard (thanks Intel consumer platform )

I was looking at USB options but decided it would look cleaner in the case.

 

[sprinkles]

I finally had some alone time without family commitments and built my new PC. I got it working without much problems - apart of a little scare at the very end when the PC would not POST. Turns out the last front panel cable was the Power Switch one and that obviously belongs into the power switch on the Mainboard and not the Power LED

Nothing fancy, no RGB or anything except on the fan. This PC is meant to be silent when not under load. So I am pretty happy with how it turned out, my first full built since 2013. It's missing a second SSD for more storage, that will be added later this week. My first PC without "normal" harddrives, since I saw no more need in those, movies and other stuff is put onto the family NAS.

 

[Mivey]

Looks nice, but you might want to move the fan on the front to the upper position. I guess the idea was to blow cool air to the GPU, but for that it seems to be positioned too high anyway, and as it stands I don't think you use it quite optimally.

 

[sprinkles]

Looks nice, but you might want to move the fan on the front to the upper position. I guess the idea was to blow cool air to the GPU, but for that it seems to be positioned too high anyway, and as it stands I don't think you use it quite optimally.

I have bought a second 12mm fan for that position, but that will be put in some other time (maybe with the second SSD). Time to play some games first

 

[madjoki]

Ended up going with non UW monitor, I maybe crazy but, after thinking, no way I'm spending 1.2k€ on single monitor.

This better be good.

Spoiler

At least I can return it if it isn't

On positive(?) side, I don't think I have anything I can upgrade, so I can start saving money for next upgrades.

 

[ISee]

Ended up going with non UW monitor, I maybe crazy but, after thinking, no way I'm spending 1.2k€ on single monitor.

This better be good.

Spoiler

At least I can return it if it isn't

On positive(?) side, I don't think I have anything I can upgrade, so I can start saving money for next upgrades.

Remember reading about that one. Seems to be a pretty good gaming display with good latency, nice color accuracy and Gsync compatible.
Enjoy and as always: Try out Doom on it. You'll love it.

 

[didamangi]

Ended up going with non UW monitor, I maybe crazy but, after thinking, no way I'm spending 1.2k€ on single monitor.

This better be good.

Spoiler

At least I can return it if it isn't

On positive(?) side, I don't think I have anything I can upgrade, so I can start saving money for next upgrades.

I like mine. A little backlight bleed on the lower left corner but that's expected for any ips monitor. Love the slim stand as well. I can really push it up against the wall even tighter than my vesa arm. Gsync works perfectly at any frame rate below 144hz with no ghosting.

Cons:
Hdr400 is trash as usual and there's no way to turn off hdr on the menu which is weird.

 

[madjoki]

Remember reading about that one. Seems to be a pretty good gaming display with good latency, nice color accuracy and Gsync compatible.
Enjoy and as always: Try out Doom on it. You'll love it.

Yeah, playing Doom on this was plan. That's why I'm upgrading right before Eternal comes out

Should be fair upgrade from my 2012 Dell 2412m. (1920x1200, 60hz)

I like mine. A little backlight bleed on the lower left corner but that's expected for any ips monitor. Love the slim stand as well. I can really push it up against the wall even tighter than my vesa arm. Gsync works perfectly at any frame rate below 144hz with no ghosting.

Cons:
Hdr400 is trash as usual and there's no way to turn off hdr on the menu which is weird.

Yeah, it's real shame there's no such thing as perfect display.

Maybe sometime this decade?

 

[sprinkles]

I like mine. A little backlight bleed on the lower left corner but that's expected for any ips monitor. Love the slim stand as well. I can really push it up against the wall even tighter than my vesa arm. Gsync works perfectly at any frame rate below 144hz with no ghosting.

Cons:
Hdr400 is trash as usual and there's no way to turn off hdr on the menu which is weird.

I have the same monitor and overall I like it too. Minor backlight bleed on mine as well, but it is IPS so it can't be helped. Don't put it on the 1hz mode (Fastest), you'll get lots of ghosting. Fast is enough for low response time.

Cons: hard to return to small monitors at work

 

[ISee]

That's why I'm upgrading right before Eternal comes out

 

[Stevey]

Installed my soundcard.

Good job red was already my colour scheme because there's a red LED on this thing.

 

[ISee]

Installed my soundcard.

Good job red was already my colour scheme because there's a red LED on this thing.

How's the sound?

 

[Stevey]

Yeah, does sound better, playing Metro Exodus definitely seems a bit clearer.

 

[Parsnip]

I'm using a USB sound box since I don't have the PCIe lanes to spare for a soundcard (thanks Intel consumer platform )

What sound box specifically?

I used to be a bit fussy about soundcards but after my recent one broke couple of years ago I haven't gotten a new one, just been using the integrated which is fine enough but I'm always curious what others are using.

 

[Durante]

Well, I used to use a Xonar U7 (for many years)... until it just broke.