After some research I think I'll search for a 24'' instead of 27'', since I'm looking for a 1080p monitor and the 27'' might look blurrier.
Also, IPS or TN?
Also, IPS or TN?
IPS for sure.After some research I think I'll search for a 24'' instead of 27'', since I'm looking for a 1080p monitor and the 27'' might look blurrier.
Also, IPS or TN?
Thanks, do you have any suggestion in particular? Future proofing makes sense.IPS for sure.
Also, I really recommend getting something with freesync/gsync support.
That way you could also grab something with a higher refresh rate even if you end up mostly playing at 60 anyway. A bit of future proofing.
But even if you go for just 60, it's still great to eliminate tearing and stutter of you end up playing something that can't reach 60 all the time.
You don't have to take care to lock exactly to 60 with a VRR monitor, small framerate drops are just invisible with that.Thanks, do you have any suggestion in particular? Future proofing makes sense.
Also kind of a stupid question (and maybe it's even more stupid if gsync is involved) but is there any difference when playing at 60 on a 144hz monitor vs a native 60hz monitor?
Also, keep in mind that monitors with higher refresh rates also have the option to set a refresh rate below the maximum. 120, 100, 85, 60, 30, are generally the default values to choose from on a 144 hz monitor. So yeah, if you don't have VRR and want to match the refresh rate to the FPS, simply change in the control panel. (Nvidia/AMD)Thanks, do you have any suggestion in particular? Future proofing makes sense.
Also kind of a stupid question (and maybe it's even more stupid if gsync is involved) but is there any difference when playing at 60 on a 144hz monitor vs a native 60hz monitor?
Thanks I'll take a look at that, my current monitor is TN so I might settle with that if there's no other option. A question, about the Strobing part, is it better with yes or no? The colouring confuses meAlso, keep in mind that monitors with higher refresh rates also have the option to set a refresh rate below the maximum. 120, 100, 85, 60, 30, are generally the default values to choose from on a 144 hz monitor. So yeah, if you don't have VRR and want to match the refresh rate to the FPS, simply change in the control panel. (Nvidia/AMD)
Edit: Snakethesniper
Some recommendations. I am unsure of what your budget is, so I've just linked to cheaper options for now. Pure G-sync will double the price and 1080p IPS 120/144hz G-sync monitors are nearly impossible to find. You're gonna have to settle on a TN panel @ 1080p G-Sync, or consider 1440p IPS as an option.
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Q9CFf7/aoc-24g2-238-1920x1080-144-hz-monitor-24g2 (AMD FreeSync but not G-Sync certified. VRR may or may not work.)
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/C8QfrH/acer-nitro-vg0-238-1920x1080-144-hz-monitor-umqv0aap01 (Not G-sync certified but reports of working here)
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/J7MTwP/asus-vp249qgr-238-1920x1080-144-hz-monitor-vp249qgr (Not G-sync certified but reports of working here)
Here is a spreadsheet that contains data on G-Sync compatible monitors. Take a look at it if you plan on buying a freesync monitor, because it usually comes with some caveats.
I don't believe you need to worry about the Strobing part. If you don't know what it is, then you're unaware of its intended use it and obviously it isn't applicable to your day to day use. Backlight Strobing is for folks that want to achieve CRT levels of motion clarity, but it has a very strict requirement. Most G-Sync monitors come with some sort of strobing technology, such as LightBoost or ULMB (Ultra Low Motion Blur). And, in order to achieve its intended results, your FPS needs to match the required refresh rate at all times. Any dips below that will cause problems. So yeah, ignore strobing for now. But if you ever want to read about it, check it out here & best setup guide.Thanks I'll take a look at that, my current monitor is TN so I might settle with that if there's no other option. A question, about the Strobing part, is it better with yes or no? The colouring confuses me
edit: for the budget I was thinking around 300€. Like I said , I used it basically only for gaming and used this TN for ... 4 -5 years? My major problems come when there's blurred images or stuttering during gameplay. From what I'm seeing, certified G-Sync are pretty new and go beyond the 300€ budget , I might settle for something lower and upgrade later in the future where the technology is more widespread and prices are fixed accordingly. Of course, suggestions are always appreciated, I'm kinda lost between all the options available.
I've found for example this asus : Amazon product24'', fullHD, 165hz, TN, FreeSync for 200-ish €.
A review talks about ghosting though...
edit2:
Amazon product this doesn't look bad
Thank you, after some more research I've found an Asus TUF VG259Q Amazon product .I don't believe you need to worry about the Strobing part. If you don't know what it is, then you're unaware of its intended use it and obviously it isn't applicable to your day to day use. Backlight Strobing is for folks that want to achieve CRT levels of motion clarity, but it has a very strict requirement. Most G-Sync monitors come with some sort of strobing technology, such as LightBoost or ULMB (Ultra Low Motion Blur). And, in order to achieve its intended results, your FPS needs to match the required refresh rate at all times. Any dips below that will cause problems. So yeah, ignore strobing for now. But if you ever want to read about it, check it out here & best setup guide.
Regarding ghosting bit, chances are that the user who mentioned the ghosting issue most likely had overdrive on. This is what "strobing" technologies do, reduce/eliminate LCD Motion artifacts. (Ghosting/Inverse, Motion Blur, PWM)
Both options seem good to me. Here's another one.
Lenovo G25-10
Again, keep in the mind the VRR range for these G-SYNC compatible monitors varies. It's never the full range. You won't have get the VRR benefit if you're playing a game locked at 30 FPS, for example.
Here are the official Nvidia VRR range for the above monitors:
Asus VG248QG - 48-144Hz
VG252QX - 50-240Hz
Lenovo G25-10 - 48-144Hz
Possible G-Sync option but TN: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4cbkcf/acer-monitor-xb241h
Most likely the cheapest G-Sync option you'll find that fits your needs.
That's one of the major difference between regular G-Sync & G-Sync Compatible monitors. The minimum regular G-Sync range is 1hz to MAX refresh rate. Although below 30 FPS you will get frame duplication, but G-Sync will continue to work.
No just gaming!Are you using your monitor for color-critical work? If the answer is no, then use whatever looks best to you.
I think it's only text (or maybe it's more noticeable) , cleartype didn't work. I also tried it on a different pc and it showed the sameIs that sharpness issue only on text or images as well?
If it's only on text you might have to configure ClearType.
The CX TVs, especially on clearance, are the best high end TVs for gaming right now. HDMI 2.1, VRR, ALLM and beautiful OLED panels that bring out the best HDR can be.Hi guys, is it ok if I ask about TVs here?
I'm considering buying a LG 65CX6LA TV, does anyone have anything negative to say about this particular model (or the 55'' one) or the brand? It has been a long time since I bought a TV and I'm kinda burned on Samsung and Sony.
Thanks for the picture. Apart from the intensity/brightness of the colour it doesn't seems THAT different I guess... ?
I think that describes pretty much all periphirals companies. And RGB lighting companies.Note to future self - Corsair - Decent Hardware, Absolute Trash Software with Zero QA Process.
I would too if I wasn't already in a bit of a money hole as is.WTF is wrong with me, I'm seriously considering spending 1269€ on a GPU....
Not sure of the RM series, but the Corsair HX/AX series are rebranded Seasonics (which is practically the reference PSU). My HX lasted 7 years before I had to RMA it. You should be alright, I reckon.Bought a Corsair RM 750x from Mwave. Hopefully it's more reliable.
I know Im late, but I also experienced text clarity issues when I bought new IPS monitor. The monitor was connected to my laptop hub using Displayport cable. Bought new cable ( displayport to mini displayport to be more specific), connected it straight to the laptop and the issue is gone. Did you try changing the cables?Hey guys, after thinkering with the settings I've found what I'm comfortable with, only one doubt remains about text clarity.
I've read online that this monitor (ASUS TUF Gaming VG259Q) apparently is a little bit blurrier than others because of the grainy coat used by asus.
From what I've read also, IPS monitors then to be a little more grainy/blurred than TN ones due to the display itself.
I've never had experience with an IPS monitor before, so I can't make a comparison of text clarity.
I've taken some pictures of mine vs the one my gf use (a 27'' TN FHQ display) and the text on her seems more clear, but I don't know if it's because it's a TN monitor or because the Asus is blurred.
Seeing the details about pixel density (which should be involved in text clarity) my monitor should be better in theory (89ppi vs 81ppi).
I wonder if I'll be able to get an RTX card put aside for me by calling my nearby Best Buy...
It was worth trying.
good luck ... you're gonna need itThe guy on the phone guessed there was probably going to be another ticket thing for the 3070TI, and I have most of next week off... So, I guess I'll be driving an hour in the morning next week.
I have the white RM 750x and it's been good.It turned out that PSU was at fault. My PC wouldn't boot today so had to replace it & iz all good now. The one that failed is a Cooler Master MWE 750. Lasted almost 2 years. Bought a Corsair RM 750x from Mwave. Hopefully it's more reliable.
Yeah, I think all Corsairs are manufactured by Seasonic.Not sure of the RM series, but the Corsair HX/AX series are rebranded Seasonics (which is practically the reference PSU). My HX lasted 7 years before I had to RMA it. You should be alright, I reckon.
Fuck, these prices are insane. I paid $1300 for a Factory OC'd 2080 in 2019. Got it from Mwave.FML.
For reference, I paid $1200 for my 1080Ti back in 2017, in the same store.
those are all in dollarydoosFuck, these prices are insane. I paid $1300 for a Factory OC'd 2080 in 2019. Got it from Mwave.
Even at msrp, 3080 ti doesn't make sense price/performance wise. If you have that kind of money to spend for a gpu, why not get the 3090 anyway?FML.
Because the pricing for the 3090 is even more ridiculous. Starting at $2800 and all the way up to $4000. I know I'd rather pay (begrudgingly) $2,500 for an upgrade from my 1080Ti plus a waterblock, in order to get a slightly lesser performance compared to 3090 with 24GB of VRAM which I would definitely never use. However, the 12GB VRAM on the 3080 Ti is definitely an upgrade which will be useful for downsampling.If you have that kind of money to spend for a gpu, why not get the 3090 anyway?
I would wait out these absolute absurd ridiculous prices honestly. I sold my 3080 and now use a 1070. The 3080 was a nice upgrade from my 1080 ti for sure at msrp price at the time but at these prices now? Not in any way shape or form.Because the pricing for the 3090 is even more ridiculous. Starting at $2800 and all the way up to $4000. I know I'd rather pay (begrudgingly) $2,500 for an upgrade from my 1080Ti plus a waterblock, in order to get a slightly lesser performance compared to 3090 with 24GB of VRAM which I would definitely never use. However, the 12GB VRAM on the 3080 Ti is definitely an upgrade which will be useful for downsampling.
Oh, for sure. Nothing is set in stone yet. I'm still pondering whether or not to just suck up and get a 3080 instead. Either way, none of them are in stock for undetermined time, and the store I frequent isn't accepting any deposit so yeah, the wait continues.I would wait out these absolute absurd ridiculous prices honestly.