|OT| The PC Hardware Thread -- Buy/Upgrade/Ask/Answer

Snakethesniper

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After some research I think I'll search for a 24'' instead of 27'', since I'm looking for a 1080p monitor and the 27'' might look blurrier.

Also, IPS or TN?
 

Ascheroth

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After some research I think I'll search for a 24'' instead of 27'', since I'm looking for a 1080p monitor and the 27'' might look blurrier.

Also, IPS or TN?
IPS for sure.
Also, I really recommend getting something with freesync/gsync support.
That way you could also grab something with a higher refresh rate even if you end up mostly playing at 60 anyway. A bit of future proofing.
But even if you go for just 60, it's still great to eliminate tearing and stutter of you end up playing something that can't reach 60 all the time.
 

Snakethesniper

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IPS for sure.
Also, I really recommend getting something with freesync/gsync support.
That way you could also grab something with a higher refresh rate even if you end up mostly playing at 60 anyway. A bit of future proofing.
But even if you go for just 60, it's still great to eliminate tearing and stutter of you end up playing something that can't reach 60 all the time.
Thanks, do you have any suggestion in particular? Future proofing makes sense.
Also kind of a stupid question (and maybe it's even more stupid if gsync is involved) but is there any difference when playing at 60 on a 144hz monitor vs a native 60hz monitor?
 

Knurek

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Thanks, do you have any suggestion in particular? Future proofing makes sense.
Also kind of a stupid question (and maybe it's even more stupid if gsync is involved) but is there any difference when playing at 60 on a 144hz monitor vs a native 60hz monitor?
You don't have to take care to lock exactly to 60 with a VRR monitor, small framerate drops are just invisible with that.
 

Valdien

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Thanks, do you have any suggestion in particular? Future proofing makes sense.
Also kind of a stupid question (and maybe it's even more stupid if gsync is involved) but is there any difference when playing at 60 on a 144hz monitor vs a native 60hz monitor?
Also, keep in mind that monitors with higher refresh rates also have the option to set a refresh rate below the maximum. 120, 100, 85, 60, 30, are generally the default values to choose from on a 144 hz monitor. So yeah, if you don't have VRR and want to match the refresh rate to the FPS, simply change in the control panel. (Nvidia/AMD)

Edit: Snakethesniper

Some recommendations. I am unsure of what your budget is, so I've just linked to cheaper options for now. Pure G-sync will double the price and 1080p IPS 120/144hz G-sync monitors are nearly impossible to find. You're gonna have to settle on a TN panel @ 1080p G-Sync, or consider 1440p IPS as an option.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Q9CFf7/aoc-24g2-238-1920x1080-144-hz-monitor-24g2 (AMD FreeSync but not G-Sync certified. VRR may or may not work.)

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/C8QfrH/acer-nitro-vg0-238-1920x1080-144-hz-monitor-umqv0aap01 (Not G-sync certified but reports of working here)

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/J7MTwP/asus-vp249qgr-238-1920x1080-144-hz-monitor-vp249qgr (Not G-sync certified but reports of working here)

Here is a spreadsheet that contains data on G-Sync compatible monitors. Take a look at it if you plan on buying a freesync monitor, because it usually comes with some caveats.

 
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Snakethesniper

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Also, keep in mind that monitors with higher refresh rates also have the option to set a refresh rate below the maximum. 120, 100, 85, 60, 30, are generally the default values to choose from on a 144 hz monitor. So yeah, if you don't have VRR and want to match the refresh rate to the FPS, simply change in the control panel. (Nvidia/AMD)

Edit: Snakethesniper

Some recommendations. I am unsure of what your budget is, so I've just linked to cheaper options for now. Pure G-sync will double the price and 1080p IPS 120/144hz G-sync monitors are nearly impossible to find. You're gonna have to settle on a TN panel @ 1080p G-Sync, or consider 1440p IPS as an option.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Q9CFf7/aoc-24g2-238-1920x1080-144-hz-monitor-24g2 (AMD FreeSync but not G-Sync certified. VRR may or may not work.)

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/C8QfrH/acer-nitro-vg0-238-1920x1080-144-hz-monitor-umqv0aap01 (Not G-sync certified but reports of working here)

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/J7MTwP/asus-vp249qgr-238-1920x1080-144-hz-monitor-vp249qgr (Not G-sync certified but reports of working here)

Here is a spreadsheet that contains data on G-Sync compatible monitors. Take a look at it if you plan on buying a freesync monitor, because it usually comes with some caveats.

Thanks I'll take a look at that, my current monitor is TN so I might settle with that if there's no other option. A question, about the Strobing part, is it better with yes or no? The colouring confuses me

edit: for the budget I was thinking around 300€. Like I said , I used it basically only for gaming and used this TN for ... 4 -5 years? My major problems come when there's blurred images or stuttering during gameplay. From what I'm seeing, certified G-Sync are pretty new and go beyond the 300€ budget , I might settle for something lower and upgrade later in the future where the technology is more widespread and prices are fixed accordingly. Of course, suggestions are always appreciated, I'm kinda lost between all the options available.

I've found for example this asus : Amazon product24'', fullHD, 165hz, TN, FreeSync for 200-ish €.
A review talks about ghosting though...

edit2:
Amazon product this doesn't look bad
 
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Valdien

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Thanks I'll take a look at that, my current monitor is TN so I might settle with that if there's no other option. A question, about the Strobing part, is it better with yes or no? The colouring confuses me

edit: for the budget I was thinking around 300€. Like I said , I used it basically only for gaming and used this TN for ... 4 -5 years? My major problems come when there's blurred images or stuttering during gameplay. From what I'm seeing, certified G-Sync are pretty new and go beyond the 300€ budget , I might settle for something lower and upgrade later in the future where the technology is more widespread and prices are fixed accordingly. Of course, suggestions are always appreciated, I'm kinda lost between all the options available.

I've found for example this asus : Amazon product24'', fullHD, 165hz, TN, FreeSync for 200-ish €.
A review talks about ghosting though...

edit2:
Amazon product this doesn't look bad
I don't believe you need to worry about the Strobing part. If you don't know what it is, then you're unaware of its intended use it and obviously it isn't applicable to your day to day use. Backlight Strobing is for folks that want to achieve CRT levels of motion clarity, but it has a very strict requirement. Most G-Sync monitors come with some sort of strobing technology, such as LightBoost or ULMB (Ultra Low Motion Blur). And, in order to achieve its intended results, your FPS needs to match the required refresh rate at all times. Any dips below that will cause problems. So yeah, ignore strobing for now. But if you ever want to read about it, check it out here & best setup guide.

Regarding ghosting bit, chances are that the user who mentioned the ghosting issue most likely had overdrive on. This is what "strobing" technologies do, reduce/eliminate LCD Motion artifacts. (Ghosting/Inverse, Motion Blur, PWM)

Both options seem good to me. Here's another one.
Lenovo G25-10

Again, keep in the mind the VRR range for these G-SYNC compatible monitors varies. It's never the full range. You won't get the VRR benefit if you're playing a game locked at 30 FPS, for example.

Here are the official Nvidia VRR range for the above monitors:

Asus VG248QG - 48-144Hz
VG252QX - 50-240Hz
Lenovo G25-10 - 48-144Hz

Possible G-Sync option but TN: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4cbkcf/acer-monitor-xb241h
Most likely the cheapest G-Sync option you'll find that fits your needs.

That's one of the major difference between regular G-Sync & G-Sync Compatible monitors. The minimum regular G-Sync range is 1hz to MAX refresh rate. Although below 30 FPS you will get frame duplication, but G-Sync will continue to work.
 
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Snakethesniper

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I don't believe you need to worry about the Strobing part. If you don't know what it is, then you're unaware of its intended use it and obviously it isn't applicable to your day to day use. Backlight Strobing is for folks that want to achieve CRT levels of motion clarity, but it has a very strict requirement. Most G-Sync monitors come with some sort of strobing technology, such as LightBoost or ULMB (Ultra Low Motion Blur). And, in order to achieve its intended results, your FPS needs to match the required refresh rate at all times. Any dips below that will cause problems. So yeah, ignore strobing for now. But if you ever want to read about it, check it out here & best setup guide.

Regarding ghosting bit, chances are that the user who mentioned the ghosting issue most likely had overdrive on. This is what "strobing" technologies do, reduce/eliminate LCD Motion artifacts. (Ghosting/Inverse, Motion Blur, PWM)

Both options seem good to me. Here's another one.
Lenovo G25-10

Again, keep in the mind the VRR range for these G-SYNC compatible monitors varies. It's never the full range. You won't have get the VRR benefit if you're playing a game locked at 30 FPS, for example.

Here are the official Nvidia VRR range for the above monitors:

Asus VG248QG - 48-144Hz
VG252QX - 50-240Hz
Lenovo G25-10 - 48-144Hz

Possible G-Sync option but TN: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4cbkcf/acer-monitor-xb241h
Most likely the cheapest G-Sync option you'll find that fits your needs.

That's one of the major difference between regular G-Sync & G-Sync Compatible monitors. The minimum regular G-Sync range is 1hz to MAX refresh rate. Although below 30 FPS you will get frame duplication, but G-Sync will continue to work.
Thank you, after some more research I've found an Asus TUF VG259Q Amazon product .
24,5'' , FULLHD, IPS, G-Sync Compatible, 144Hz
I saw good reviews online and it seems the best solution for what I'm looking at the moment, it's also mentioned on the official nvidia website for Gsync Compatible choices.
 
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Snakethesniper

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I need help setting up the new monitor, I tried different settings, reading online etc and I've found a solution, only thing I'm not sure is gamma.

Basically the situation is this:
using some .icc profiles found online, I find the colors too dark, not for brightness settings or saturation, but for gamma.

  1. Using the lagom test Gamma calibration - Lagom LCD test with every profile (including mine) I see the bars unifing at 2.2.
  2. Using the windows calibration tool, with my configuration (less dark, more ok to me) the dots melt nicely, with the other profiles I can see them
  3. Using this other test image https://glennmessersmith.com/images/gamma220.png , with my profile I see the colours, with the darker ones it's more grey
So, WHO SHOULD I TRUST? For lagom is indifferent and windows vs the other image give opposite results
 
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Knurek

OG old coot
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Also you should never use ICC profiles found on the internet.
Each monitor has a slightly different color accuracy, so using ICC profile not made from your actual unit is just playing color lottery.
 

Snakethesniper

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Hey guys, after thinkering with the settings I've found what I'm comfortable with, only one doubt remains about text clarity.
I've read online that this monitor (ASUS TUF Gaming VG259Q) apparently is a little bit blurrier than others because of the grainy coat used by asus.
From what I've read also, IPS monitors then to be a little more grainy/blurred than TN ones due to the display itself.

I've never had experience with an IPS monitor before, so I can't make a comparison of text clarity.

I've taken some pictures of mine vs the one my gf use (a 27'' TN FHQ display) and the text on her seems more clear, but I don't know if it's because it's a TN monitor or because the Asus is blurred.
Seeing the details about pixel density (which should be involved in text clarity) my monitor should be better in theory (89ppi vs 81ppi).

Here's the pictures I've taken:




Mines are on the left, you can notice the difference for example in "digimon" and "keyshops enabled".
 
OP
Durante

Durante

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Is that sharpness issue only on text or images as well?
If it's only on text you might have to configure ClearType.
 

kio

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Hi guys, is it ok if I ask about TVs here?
I'm considering buying a LG 65CX6LA TV, does anyone have anything negative to say about this particular model (or the 55'' one) or the brand? It has been a long time since I bought a TV and I'm kinda burned on Samsung and Sony.
 

Snakethesniper

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Is that sharpness issue only on text or images as well?
If it's only on text you might have to configure ClearType.
I think it's only text (or maybe it's more noticeable) , cleartype didn't work. I also tried it on a different pc and it showed the same
 

C-Dub

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Hi guys, is it ok if I ask about TVs here?
I'm considering buying a LG 65CX6LA TV, does anyone have anything negative to say about this particular model (or the 55'' one) or the brand? It has been a long time since I bought a TV and I'm kinda burned on Samsung and Sony.
The CX TVs, especially on clearance, are the best high end TVs for gaming right now. HDMI 2.1, VRR, ALLM and beautiful OLED panels that bring out the best HDR can be.
 
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Snakethesniper

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I've changed the Asus with a msi optix g241, I find the text much better but I have a question about vignetting.
From what I've been told it's normal to have some kind of vignetting effect on IPS monitor, in particular entry-level ones.
Do you know if this is ok?
 

EdwardTivrusky

Good Morning, Weather Hackers!
Dec 8, 2018
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This is basically a note to myself to think long and hard about buying Corsair hardware ever again.
They have done something with their ICue software and it's wiped my mouse profiles, again and now it's a bitch to remap the forward button to middle-click.

Note to future self - Corsair - Decent Hardware, Absolute Trash Software with Zero QA Process.
 

EdwardTivrusky

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It seems so. ICue was annoying but once i worked out the lighting system so my mouse isn't like a rave and i have the scroll wheel LED show my CPU temps and set the "Forward" button on the side of the mouse to Middle-Click all was good. It even has memory onboard so i remembers my settings which is getting rare for mice these days. It's just that every other update iCue trashes my settings and sometimes iCue trashes them for a laugh. Ho ho ho.

My settings are basic enough that it's not really a problem but it's annoying.
 

Valdien

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[UWSL]So, uh, my PC has been acting weird for the past week. Whenever I shut it off for the day and turn it back on the following day, it will, at times, not turn on.[/UWSL]

[UWSL]It's happened three times so far. The first two didn't seem like much of an issue; I turned off the power supply for about a minute before turning it back on and booting the PC. However, today it seemed more serious. The PC would turn on for literally a split second before turning off. Tried a couple of times and no go. I decided to switch the PS plug to a different outlet on the multi-power strip, and it worked. [/UWSL]

[UWSL]I'm not sure what's at fault here. Is it the power supply, the motherboard, or the multi-power outlet? If it's the power supply, I could probably order a spare and keep it around just in case things get worse. At the very least, it'll help me troubleshoot the problem in the future. That way, I'll at least know the power supply [/UWSL][UWSL]isn't [/UWSL][UWSL]the issue.[/UWSL]

[UWSL]The only things connected to the multi-power outlet is the power supply & monitor. Basically, I'm hoping it's not a MOBO issue. Nobody wants that. :p[/UWSL]
 

Stevey

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I'd always start with the cheapest thing and try a different multi power outlet if you have one.
 
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Kvik

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Downunder.
Guru3d's reviews of 3080 Ti



Gamers Nexus



Digital Foundry



TLDR; low overclocking headroom, high TDP (350W), there is slight heat bleed in the Founder Edition's cooler. A beastly card which makes more sense than 3090 (if you can actually find one~).
 
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Valdien

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It turned out that PSU was at fault. My PC wouldn't boot today so had to replace it & iz all good now. The one that failed is a Cooler Master MWE 750. Lasted almost 2 years. Bought a Corsair RM 750x from Mwave. Hopefully it's more reliable.
 
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Kvik

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Downunder.
Bought a Corsair RM 750x from Mwave. Hopefully it's more reliable.
Not sure of the RM series, but the Corsair HX/AX series are rebranded Seasonics (which is practically the reference PSU). My HX lasted 7 years before I had to RMA it. You should be alright, I reckon.
 
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MomoVideo

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Hey guys, after thinkering with the settings I've found what I'm comfortable with, only one doubt remains about text clarity.
I've read online that this monitor (ASUS TUF Gaming VG259Q) apparently is a little bit blurrier than others because of the grainy coat used by asus.
From what I've read also, IPS monitors then to be a little more grainy/blurred than TN ones due to the display itself.

I've never had experience with an IPS monitor before, so I can't make a comparison of text clarity.

I've taken some pictures of mine vs the one my gf use (a 27'' TN FHQ display) and the text on her seems more clear, but I don't know if it's because it's a TN monitor or because the Asus is blurred.
Seeing the details about pixel density (which should be involved in text clarity) my monitor should be better in theory (89ppi vs 81ppi).
I know Im late, but I also experienced text clarity issues when I bought new IPS monitor. The monitor was connected to my laptop hub using Displayport cable. Bought new cable ( displayport to mini displayport to be more specific), connected it straight to the laptop and the issue is gone. Did you try changing the cables?
 

Dinjoralo

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I wonder if I'll be able to get an RTX card put aside for me by calling my nearby Best Buy...
 
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Dinjoralo

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It was worth trying.

The guy on the phone guessed there was probably going to be another ticket thing for the 3070TI, and I have most of next week off... So, I guess I'll be driving an hour in the morning next week.
 
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lashman

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The guy on the phone guessed there was probably going to be another ticket thing for the 3070TI, and I have most of next week off... So, I guess I'll be driving an hour in the morning next week.
good luck ... you're gonna need it :negative-blob:
 

Parsnip

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It turned out that PSU was at fault. My PC wouldn't boot today so had to replace it & iz all good now. The one that failed is a Cooler Master MWE 750. Lasted almost 2 years. Bought a Corsair RM 750x from Mwave. Hopefully it's more reliable.
I have the white RM 750x and it's been good. :blobmorning2:

Not sure of the RM series, but the Corsair HX/AX series are rebranded Seasonics (which is practically the reference PSU). My HX lasted 7 years before I had to RMA it. You should be alright, I reckon.
Yeah, I think all Corsairs are manufactured by Seasonic. :thumbsupblob:
 
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Dinjoralo

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I am hit with a wave of despair as I realize I'm probably not gonna get a GPU at all. Bleh. Kinda wish I could just legally rob a scalper...

I'm also wondering how early I should be at that Best Buy.
 
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Kvik

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Downunder.
If you have that kind of money to spend for a gpu, why not get the 3090 anyway?
Because the pricing for the 3090 is even more ridiculous. Starting at $2800 and all the way up to $4000. I know I'd rather pay (begrudgingly) $2,500 for an upgrade from my 1080Ti plus a waterblock, in order to get a slightly lesser performance compared to 3090 with 24GB of VRAM which I would definitely never use. However, the 12GB VRAM on the 3080 Ti is definitely an upgrade which will be useful for downsampling.
 

didamangi

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Because the pricing for the 3090 is even more ridiculous. Starting at $2800 and all the way up to $4000. I know I'd rather pay (begrudgingly) $2,500 for an upgrade from my 1080Ti plus a waterblock, in order to get a slightly lesser performance compared to 3090 with 24GB of VRAM which I would definitely never use. However, the 12GB VRAM on the 3080 Ti is definitely an upgrade which will be useful for downsampling.
I would wait out these absolute absurd ridiculous prices honestly. I sold my 3080 and now use a 1070. The 3080 was a nice upgrade from my 1080 ti for sure at msrp price at the time but at these prices now? Not in any way shape or form.

I guess if you're really itching for it then yeah, I can see where you're coming from but again, it's $2500. For a GPU. I still would rather buy a $2800 3090 if I have to buy one though.
 

Kvik

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Downunder.
I would wait out these absolute absurd ridiculous prices honestly.
Oh, for sure. Nothing is set in stone yet. I'm still pondering whether or not to just suck up and get a 3080 instead. Either way, none of them are in stock for undetermined time, and the store I frequent isn't accepting any deposit so yeah, the wait continues.
 
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