That's kinda surprising as QD-OLED is supposed to be per-pixel emissive like regular OLED, so it's kinda hard to understand why it looks like there is some kind of backlight here.Enjoy, I guess...
(yes, that's pure black on both)
That's kinda surprising as QD-OLED is supposed to be per-pixel emissive like regular OLED, so it's kinda hard to understand why it looks like there is some kind of backlight here.Enjoy, I guess...
(yes, that's pure black on both)
It's not backlight, Dell used bad anti-glare coating.That's kinda surprising as QD-OLED is supposed to be per-pixel emissive like regular OLED, so it's kinda hard to understand why it looks like there is some kind of backlight here.
that is a really strange choice to mess with your expensive monitor.It's not backlight, Dell used bad anti-glare coating.
Monitor is still pure black in an unlit room, but the second you turn on your lights, you get IPS levels of contrast.
I mean, having crystal clear reflections is also not great.
That said, personally I almost always play in the dark anyway (which is one reason I really don't like IPS for gaming).
Yeah that's the point honestlyI am not expecting good availability and prices.
I am kinda in the same spot, but I am still going to wait but I am also on the verge of buying a used 3060 TI to be a bit more modernly equipped.
It is not. (But like with headphones, there's plenty of great not-expensive stuff out there.)These hot-swappable switches is like the iem/headphone rabbit hole all over again. At least it's cheaper. (maybe)
I think the absolute highest end with keyboards is about 600$. And that's talking about very rare GBs. The cumulative costs for a keyboard can be higher, but switches are generally cheaper, and most mods don't require a ton of money, just time.It is not. (But like with headphones, there's plenty of great not-expensive stuff out there.)
I think their testing also showed that some motherboards were good at dealing with those massive spikes, so I think it might also come down to getting a good motherboard and PSU combo, which might alleviate the need to require crazy high wattage on the PSU alone.Watched a Gamers Nexus video about GPU power spikes. The case for lots of people's random system instabilities being down to GPUs randomly spiking to several hundred watts above the average is pretty open and shut. Everyone is going to need MUCH bigger and better PSUs for the 4000 series unless you already have like a 1k PSU.
I remember years ago there were so many people on hardware forums saying 'always skimp on wattage'. Meanwhile I've spent the last 20 years always buying the premium PSUs at high wattages. I may actually have to buy a new PSU next build, though, with wattages getting so crazy. :/Never skimp on PSU, but when the spikes are getting to be 2 or 3 times the rated wattage, it's starting to get pretty nuts.
As someone who did jump on a 48" C1 as a monitor, I am still completely torn. It's insanely huge, when I'm sitting at the desk I just use the middle part of the screen like an UItrawide, and just move back further to actually game. I'm wavering on if I will actually keep it, or just find a good monitor instead and not have OLED...Yesterday I was so close to jumping on that LG C1 48" at $800 (which it still is in the US across all sellers), I did even more research on it. I think with my desk I would have just barely enough space to truly enjoy it, but the few downsides of an OLED are still enough to push me on the 'no' side. Had it been a C2 42" at that price, I probably would have gone for it (due to the smaller size)...
No joke I've been waiting for OLED tech to be viable for more than 15 years before even the first commercial OLED displays...
Inno3d is fine. But that Gigabyte at the EUR 620 (or EUR 806) is a much better deal.I've been looking at this Inno3d 3070
But I don't know much about Inno3d. Anyone here has expirience with them ?
E: There's also this gigabyte. I'm not sure which of the two I should get since any other option seems to be to expensive.
I ended up getting the Gigabyte, since the Inno wasn't discounted anymore (the Inno was 599 when I saw it).Inno3d is fine. But that Gigabyte at the EUR 620 (or EUR 806) is a much better deal.
Could it perhaps help to undervolt the GPU?Alright so I've had my RTX 3080 for about a week now and last night for the second time my PC just randomly shut down and turned back on. Both times it happened while I was playing FFVIIR although I've also played it plenty of times without any issues. Doesn't look like anything's crashing or overheating although I've turned on logging in Afterburner to make sure the next time it happens. But yeah, everything just goes black instantly and then the PC boots back up immediately so it really looks like the power is just cutting off. The first time it happened I assumed the house got a power dip or a breaker had tripped or something but nothing else in the house was affected.
My specs:
CPU: Intel Core i9-12900K
Cooler: iCue H100i Elite Capellix
Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix Z690-A Wifi D4
RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR-3200
4 SSDs (2x 2.5" and 2x m.2)
PSU: Corsair RM850x
oh and I have a bunch of RGB fans in my Corsair case although I don't imagine that matters here.
I'm thinking either the card itself has spikes that the PSU can't handle or maybe the system overall is pulling so much that there isn't enough wiggle room left to account for them, right? Do I need to buy a new PSU already? Other than making sure to log everything while playing a demanding game, is there anything else I can do to confirm whether it's due to transient power spikes?
I have an old Corsair 1000W I could swap in to see if the issue persists but it's over 10 years old at this point (and has powered my last two PCs full time) so I'm hesitant to use it in my new PC despite it never giving me any issues...
There's one thing I don't understand. This mystical DLDSR, in the 3D configuration where you can select the multipliers you want it displays the wrong resolution. Has this always been like that ?
I forget where I saw something about this recently, maybe in the steam thread, but do you guys have multiple displays hooked up by chance?I have the same issue, display is 1440p but the ratios are for 1080p
Yes. I ended up fully deleting my drivers (with DDU) and reinstalling and now it shows up correctly.but do you guys have multiple displays hooked up by chance?
I thought about it but I'd have to look into it a bit more and see if there's any risks involved. From what I've seen so far it sounds like it wouldn't necessarily fix the issue entirely so it might not be a permanent solution either way.Could it perhaps help to undervolt the GPU?
Yeah I also have a 1080 monitor.
I went back and found the post where I saw this recently.Yes. I ended up fully deleting my drivers (with DDU) and reinstalling and now it shows up correctly.
edit: Yeah, that might be it. Turning off DLDSR, moving NCP to my main monitor, closing and relaunching it makes it show the correct 4K resolution next to 2.25x. But if I turn it on, close NCP and relaunch it (on the same monitor) it's back to 2880x1620 lol. Just gonna chalk this one up to NCP being weird, I guess.
Just yesterday I realized how much 4:3 content I play on my PC... My OLED wouldn't have lasted a month...Yesterday I was so close to jumping on that LG C1 48" at $800 (which it still is in the US across all sellers), I did even more research on it. I think with my desk I would have just barely enough space to truly enjoy it, but the few downsides of an OLED are still enough to push me on the 'no' side. Had it been a C2 42" at that price, I probably would have gone for it (due to the smaller size)...
No joke I've been waiting for OLED tech to be viable for more than 15 years before even the first commercial OLED displays...
Last time I had this issue it was my 5 year old 850W EVGA PSU that was failing. It would fail on very specific games and very specific scenarios in the games, or under sustained heavy load. It was under warranty but EVGA's warranty service cost a lot to take advantage of (not to mention they didn't package it well shipping a refurbished one back to me...)Alright so I've had my RTX 3080 for about a week now and last night for the second time my PC just randomly shut down and turned back on. Both times it happened while I was playing FFVIIR although I've also played it plenty of times without any issues. Doesn't look like anything's crashing or overheating although I've turned on logging in Afterburner to make sure the next time it happens. But yeah, everything just goes black instantly and then the PC boots back up immediately so it really looks like the power is just cutting off. The first time it happened I assumed the house got a power dip or a breaker had tripped or something but nothing else in the house was affected.
My specs:
CPU: Intel Core i9-12900K
Cooler: iCue H100i Elite Capellix
Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix Z690-A Wifi D4
RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR-3200
4 SSDs (2x 2.5" and 2x m.2)
PSU: Corsair RM850x
oh and I have a bunch of RGB fans in my Corsair case although I don't imagine that matters here.
I'm thinking either the card itself has spikes that the PSU can't handle or maybe the system overall is pulling so much that there isn't enough wiggle room left to account for them, right? Do I need to buy a new PSU already? Other than making sure to log everything while playing a demanding game, is there anything else I can do to confirm whether it's due to transient power spikes?
I have an old Corsair 1000W I could swap in to see if the issue persists but it's over 10 years old at this point (and has powered my last two PCs full time) so I'm hesitant to use it in my new PC despite it never giving me any issues...
In my case the RTX 3080 is the new change. I've been using the PSU without issue since January. Doesn't mean it can't be going bad but for now I'm working on the assumption that it just can't handle the card. I already bought a 1200W replacement (and some white cables to go with it because I refuse to let this ruin the white theme of my PC lmao) but I think I'll hold off until next week-end to install it. I bought them right away cause they were on sale but I wanna take another week to experiment and try to make sure the issue is due to transient spikes.Last time I had this issue it was my 5 year old 850W EVGA PSU that was failing. It would fail on very specific games and very specific scenarios in the games, or under sustained heavy load. It was under warranty but EVGA's warranty service cost a lot to take advantage of (not to mention they didn't package it well shipping a refurbished one back to me...)
I had my 3080 for a while at that point. It was the PSU that was failing, nothing else had changed.
I don't have much experience with CPU coolers. I currently use a pretty big one from Noctua in my current case. It's the Noctua NH-U12A, cost around twice what you currently selected. It's super quiet and also pretty good at cooling my 3800X. Basically 40 degree idle.Is the Hyper 212 a good fit for this CPU and maybe later a better one ? Or should I really go top end ?