The way things are going, 1500W won't be overboard soon (if not immediately)
|OT| The PC Hardware Thread -- Buy/Upgrade/Ask/Answer
- Thread starter Durante
- Start date
Afaik the 8700k is still good enough to get a solid 60fps out of games but going much higher could quickly become problematic in newer cpu intensive games. Benchmarks show higher than 60fps for hitman 3 too unless you go max raytracing which taxes and tanks everything in that game.
Something you could try but might not have yet is limiting framerate, i had an issue with Forza Horizon 5 that was easily diagnosed due to the benchmark. Essentially the game ran smooth when the gpu was the limiting factor (or i set a frame rate limit that didn't push the limits of my pc) but stuttered horribly when the cpu was the slowest link. For me the solution was to just go higher in gpu settings and enjoy the better visuals but that won't work with your 3090
Thanks, im just looking to get 60fps which the frame counter says im getting constantly, its just this weird stutter where the image can go from fine, nice and smooth to a juddering almost double vision type effect. Doesn't happen all the time but when it does its really off putting and gives me a headache.Afaik the 8700k is still good enough to get a solid 60fps out of games but going much higher could quickly become problematic in newer cpu intensive games. Benchmarks show higher than 60fps for hitman 3 too unless you go max raytracing which taxes and tanks everything in that game.
Something you could try but might not have yet is limiting framerate, i had an issue with Forza Horizon 5 that was easily diagnosed due to the benchmark. Essentially the game ran smooth when the gpu was the limiting factor (or i set a frame rate limit that didn't push the limits of my pc) but stuttered horribly when the cpu was the slowest link. For me the solution was to just go higher in gpu settings and enjoy the better visuals but that won't work with your 3090
OP
- Thread Starter
- #3,106
My AW3423DW (Alienware OLED ultrawide) that I ordered in April arrived today.
Not gonna lie, it's pretty great. Easily my favourite monitor I've ever had (or even seen).
Not gonna lie, it's pretty great. Easily my favourite monitor I've ever had (or even seen).
Outside of the fact that the thing is 1300 and I now hate you, how are you gonna adapt your desktop use to an OLED ? I mean, does the burn in not scare you ? Genuinely curious, it's a beaut.
OP
- Thread Starter
- #3,108
I'm not too concerned about the general desktop content. I usually switch between 4 different virtual desktops for different contexts (uni work, ph3 work, games and misc), so everything switches around in terms of placement. I also don't use high brightness for desktop work.
After looking at everything my monitor shows the part I was most concerned about are the icons in the taskbar notification area. Those always stay there, are full white on black, and are mostly remain the same for weeks on end. The general advice is to set the taskbar to auto-hide, but I really can't work that way, it's too distracting and I need the information. So instead, today I wrote a program that dims the entire task bar to 25% brightness when the mouse cursor isn't within 100 px of it (and then it smoothly fades it in). I'm happy with how that's working out so far. Ideally, when/if I find it again, I'll hook this software up to my eye tracker.
After looking at everything my monitor shows the part I was most concerned about are the icons in the taskbar notification area. Those always stay there, are full white on black, and are mostly remain the same for weeks on end. The general advice is to set the taskbar to auto-hide, but I really can't work that way, it's too distracting and I need the information. So instead, today I wrote a program that dims the entire task bar to 25% brightness when the mouse cursor isn't within 100 px of it (and then it smoothly fades it in). I'm happy with how that's working out so far. Ideally, when/if I find it again, I'll hook this software up to my eye tracker.
How's the GPU prices now for you guys locally atm?
RTX 3080 12gb for $680 is really tempting me, although I know they'll most likely show the 4090 later this month. Also heard something called proof of stake, whatever that is, for ethereum willl be done this month, possibly triggering a flood of used mining gpus to push the price further down. At least that's what some tech youtubers/redditors telling me.
If I'm not already on a 3060 ti, I'll probably snatch that 3080 in a heartbeat tbh.
RTX 3080 12gb for $680 is really tempting me, although I know they'll most likely show the 4090 later this month. Also heard something called proof of stake, whatever that is, for ethereum willl be done this month, possibly triggering a flood of used mining gpus to push the price further down. At least that's what some tech youtubers/redditors telling me.
If I'm not already on a 3060 ti, I'll probably snatch that 3080 in a heartbeat tbh.
Anyone with some HW knowledge - can you tell me if those are all right temps for my setup?
Ryzen 5600X (Eco Mode) + be quiet! Shadow Rock Slim, RTX 3070 with Noctua fans:
Idle:
Full load on CPU only (prime95)
Full system load (prime95 + furmark)
I've had the CPU hit (or barely scrape below) thermal limits after long gaming sessions during the summer (ambient temps 35+C), wanted to check if this persisted, but couldn't get the CPU above 82C. That's still a decent temp for Ryzen 5 series, right?
Ryzen 5600X (Eco Mode) + be quiet! Shadow Rock Slim, RTX 3070 with Noctua fans:
Idle:
Full load on CPU only (prime95)
Full system load (prime95 + furmark)
I've had the CPU hit (or barely scrape below) thermal limits after long gaming sessions during the summer (ambient temps 35+C), wanted to check if this persisted, but couldn't get the CPU above 82C. That's still a decent temp for Ryzen 5 series, right?
It seems that 3060 TI go for more than 300 $ on eBay (in the US).
With that calculated in a RTX 3080 12 GB for ~380 seems relatively cheap.
But as you stated I would expect that the prices of used cards will continue to fall in the next weeks and month.
The temperatures seem normal. I would not expect that any game will produce the load of a combined Prime95 & Furmark run.Anyone with some HW knowledge - can you tell me if those are all right temps for my setup?
Ryzen 5600X (Eco Mode) + be quiet! Shadow Rock Slim, RTX 3070 with Noctua fans:
Idle:
Full load on CPU only (prime95)
Full system load (prime95 + furmark)
I've had the CPU hit (or barely scrape below) thermal limits after long gaming sessions during the summer (ambient temps 35+C), wanted to check if this persisted, but couldn't get the CPU above 82C. That's still a decent temp for Ryzen 5 series, right?
In the case you mentioned (high ambient temps) you could try to change stuff to reduce the CPU temperatures.
E.G. undervolting the CPU or opening the side panel of the case.
Just to test if that helps.
Still quite pricey.
Actual in stock retail prices for the 10G versions of 3080 starts at around €900, 12G version starts around €950. On the plus side they are now bundled with Spidey.
I mean it's not quite January 22 prices where they were €1400 and €1800 and out of stock, but no huge movements for the past few months. As far as I saw most cards dropped significantly from jan to april or so, and then kind of slowed down.
Have not looked at what the local used market looks like.
Surface Gaming Laptop will be announced next week?
Any advice on what is a decent cpu + mobo these days to pair with my 3090? Not looking for mega expensive but fancy upgrading the older bits of my system to keep up with the 3090, what with the new 4000 prices i think ill skip a new gpu and sort out some of the rest of my PC.
As predicted, the price for the new cards is out of this world, now it remains to be seen if availability is good or not. Probably better since the crypto boom is unbooming, but who knows. Everyone's making their chips at TSMC, just how much capacity do they have.
In any case, ball is in AMD's court. Do they have a competitive product, if yes, what's the price going to be. Very curious about the new chiplet desing too. I expect their raster performance is up to par but RT is a questionmark. They also bought Xilinx not too long ago but that probably wont manifest as anything in the GPU space even though they have some kind of ML stuff in their portfolio. Surely there would have been some rumors about that if anything like that was in the works.
In any case, ball is in AMD's court. Do they have a competitive product, if yes, what's the price going to be. Very curious about the new chiplet desing too. I expect their raster performance is up to par but RT is a questionmark. They also bought Xilinx not too long ago but that probably wont manifest as anything in the GPU space even though they have some kind of ML stuff in their portfolio. Surely there would have been some rumors about that if anything like that was in the works.
Me now: NVIDIA can eat a bag of dicks
Me, after November 3rd: NVIDIA and AMD can both eat a bag of dicks.
Me, after November 3rd: NVIDIA and AMD can both eat a bag of dicks.
€1100 for the cheapest one, close to €1500 for the proper 4080. Guess I won't be buying a 40 series card this year. Like I could probably afford it if I really wanted to, but those prices are a joke
Just looking on advice on whether to upgrade or wait.
I’ve currently got a Ryzen 3600 in my PC, which I’m happy with - but that upgrade itch is there.
After looking at the 7600X, and considering the cost of a new motherboard and DDR5 Ram as well, I’m considering picking up a 5800X3D. I’m just not sure if it’s worth dropping $400 on an AM4 socket CPU, when they’re moving on to a new one.
Worth doing? Or just keep on waiting?
I’ve currently got a Ryzen 3600 in my PC, which I’m happy with - but that upgrade itch is there.
After looking at the 7600X, and considering the cost of a new motherboard and DDR5 Ram as well, I’m considering picking up a 5800X3D. I’m just not sure if it’s worth dropping $400 on an AM4 socket CPU, when they’re moving on to a new one.
Worth doing? Or just keep on waiting?
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I feel like if the games that you play are still running fine, why upgrade? It's virtually always better to wait.
If you use your PC for work then that maybe complicates things a little.
OP
- Thread Starter
- #3,122
The 7-series X3D chips should be extremely good for gaming, though probably AMD will ask for an arm and a leg for them, and you'll still need an entirely new platform.
In terms of cost efficiency for gaming, in your situation, getting a 5800X3D is one of the rare times where a CPU-only upgrade actually makes sense, so it's not a terrible idea.
Need reviewers to verified this but looks pretty good watt/performance wise. If the b760 ddr4 motherboard + 13700 has reasonable pricing and ddr5 pricing is still high down the line, might be tempted to upgrade my 8700k setup.
From intel presentation, 5800x3d is a pretty good performer. Not a bad upgrade at all.
Need reviewers to verified this but looks pretty good watt/performance wise. If the b760 ddr4 motherboard + 13700 has reasonable pricing and ddr5 pricing is still high down the line, might be tempted to upgrade my 8700k setup.
AMD actually gained some performance at 65W. (Not that there are any reasonably priced motherboards at the moment.)
I've got a new motherboard and cpu and plugged in my ssd with my windows installation but it doesnt boot. The drive shows up in bios but there is no boot to windows option. I tried re-assembling the old mobo and cpu and it boots to windows so im a bit lost as to why it wont load up, Tried windows media recovery and it cant repair as it doesnt think there is a windows install.
any ideas?
any ideas?
OP
- Thread Starter
- #3,126
Is that the only storage medium in your old PC?
If not, then maybe your actual boot sector is on a different disk. (It does not necessarily need to be on the Windows install disk IIRC)
Ah ok, I had................... 3 ssds, one m.2 and an old hdd in the old set up. Ive taken out the hdd and hadnt plugged in the other ssds so ill try that.
Thanks.
UPDATE
I tried connecting all the drives and that didnt work. Im at a loss as to why its not booting into windows but ive decided to just do a fresh install. Ive been transferring my old upgraded copy of windows 7 through about 3-4 upgrades at this point and so maybe a fresh install is the cleaner option. Got a cheap windows key and will load it up today.
Thanks for the advice though.
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Looks like the need for 1000w plus PSU isn't there yet for most
Can I ask what monitors other people are using? We know what Durante is rocking, and I would love to get on board with the Alienware QD-OLED, but it's a bit rich for my blood. I know a 42" C2 OLED or an Alienware QD-OLED is gonna be the best image quality, but I'm wondering what everyone else is using if you don't mind sharing.
I'm using the Alienware QD-OLED. Sorry if the response seems a bit canned, but figured I'd chime in. I recently had to get a replacement though (Just got it in yesterday), because I was starting to get screen burn-in after a few months of using it in a split screen layout using PowerToys (and then later FancyWM). I can at least say that their technical support was really quick on resolving the problem and the replacement came in a day or two afterwards.
The motion clarity is crazy at 175Hz. Looks smoother in motion (regarding less ghosting) than any 240+Hz LCD I've seen (mainly trying different displays and laptops at Best Buy) or used (setting up a friend's system). I was already sold on an OLED display after noticing that my iPhone 13 Pro Max's 120Hz display looked smoother than the LG 34GP83A-B that I was using at the time (Although there's probably better IPS monitors by now for the price). The big downside with the display for me is that the HDR 1000 mode has massive IBL that becomes jarring. The good news is that HDR 400 looks miles better on an OLED than most LCDs with a fake HDR mode, and it still looks fantastic.
Can't see myself upgrading unless a 32:9 240Hz OLED releases, I've wanted a 32:9 for a while, but I couldn't swallow the high price for a VA panel (Which I had an ultrawide display a few years ago that used it, and the ghosting was easily the worst I had). I'd love something with a high enough refresh rate to give black frame insertion a try (as with my previous monitor, 80Hz BFI still looked like it was flickering to me).
As for my secondary display, I have a Cintiq 22, the colors are definitely worse on that, but I ended up buying that because 10 inch drawing tablet displays are too small for me, and for the solid drawing tablet drivers and responsive pen inputs (I've tried XP-Pen displays back when I was unsure about spending a ton on a drawing tablet, and they have way more input filtering going on).
I have a few years old Samsung C27HG70, 2560x1440 @ 144hz, QLED and it's G-Sync compatible.
I really like it, i have it on a VESA arm on the back of my desk so the stand isn't in the way. It's curved which i thought i'd hate but took a chance and it's fine. I don't notice it tbh. The main thing is that it's a matt screen so i don't get reflections. I can deal with colors not "popping" if i don't have to deal with glare, reflected light streaks etc.
However it recently developed a fault. If the monitor has been off for a few hours then when i switch it back on the image is only displayed in a strip across the top of the screen and as it "warms up like an old CRT" the image fills the screen properly. From what i've read i think it's terminal and something to do with the power voltage regulator and not something fixable by me.
If i get another monitor it'll probably be very similar to this one in size and spec.
I really like it, i have it on a VESA arm on the back of my desk so the stand isn't in the way. It's curved which i thought i'd hate but took a chance and it's fine. I don't notice it tbh. The main thing is that it's a matt screen so i don't get reflections. I can deal with colors not "popping" if i don't have to deal with glare, reflected light streaks etc.
However it recently developed a fault. If the monitor has been off for a few hours then when i switch it back on the image is only displayed in a strip across the top of the screen and as it "warms up like an old CRT" the image fills the screen properly. From what i've read i think it's terminal and something to do with the power voltage regulator and not something fixable by me.
If i get another monitor it'll probably be very similar to this one in size and spec.
This is actually a very helpful response. Are you not afraid of additional burn in? I assume you are using this display for work (which I would as well) and that's why PowerToys burned into the screen. Any additional info on that?
Well, the OLED panel refresh option seemingly stopped showing the red flashing bars after the first or second run, so I'm unsure if it was a software problem or something in that regards. But from my time, I've ran those without luck. This is what the burn-in looked like on the display, and it would only really show when there was gray contrast being shown.
But luckily, so far, no problems on this replacement. Unsure if the warranty applies for more than one replacement period, so I'm going to pay attention next time the Panel Refresh option gets suggested to me (to see if it does what I remember it used to), and be a bit more careful with leaving the screen on more than a certain segment of time. I should probably look into getting Wallpaper Engine and a screen saver (I remember when those were trendy on CRT screens) set up to reduce the amount of still stuff on-screen at a given time.
Thanks for the follow-up. The QD-OLED is definitely my most wanted display, it's just a bit out of my price range right now I think. They are making a newer model that is cheaper and has Freesync instead of G-Sync, so I could look into that one. Otherwise I know anything I get will be a huge compromise on image quality. It's difficult when I have an LG B9 OLED in the living room, and jumping back to my IPS panel is really noticeable.Well, the OLED panel refresh option seemingly stopped showing the red flashing bars after the first or second run, so I'm unsure if it was a software problem or something in that regards. But from my time, I've ran those without luck. This is what the burn-in looked like on the display, and it would only really show when there was gray contrast being shown.
But luckily, so far, no problems on this replacement. Unsure if the warranty applies for more than one replacement period, so I'm going to pay attention next time the Panel Refresh option gets suggested to me (to see if it does what I remember it used to), and be a bit more careful with leaving the screen on more than a certain segment of time. I should probably look into getting Wallpaper Engine and a screen saver (I remember when those were trendy on CRT screens) set up to reduce the amount of still stuff on-screen at a given time.
The good news is that the current model does have FreeSync support built-in alongside GSync, which works fine on my RX 6700XT. However, I do imagine there's a $100-200 price cut by removing the GSync module.
Good thing that some time ago nvidia finally buckled and started supporting hdmi 2.1 vrr capable displays as gsync compatible too, the gsync module stuff always really rubbed me the wrong way.
Also I'm actually using my LG C9 as as my primary monitor these days. My actual monitor is Dell UltraSharp U2414H IPS I got in 2014, but it's collecting dust as I rarely sit in front of the desk.
Also I'm actually using my LG C9 as as my primary monitor these days. My actual monitor is Dell UltraSharp U2414H IPS I got in 2014, but it's collecting dust as I rarely sit in front of the desk.
Unsurprisingly the consumer card market is imploding, because miners are not buying anymore and everybody else Will take Yeats to buy Another GPU Gor gaming.
We can see this in the disastrous Q3 AMD's financial results in this sector: AMD Issues Early Q3’22 Financial Results: Misses Guidance By $1B as Client Revenue Craters
We can see this in the disastrous Q3 AMD's financial results in this sector: AMD Issues Early Q3’22 Financial Results: Misses Guidance By $1B as Client Revenue Craters
My Valve Index being plugged into my PC with usb seems to prevent Windows 11 power saving settings (such as turning off the display and making the computer sleep) to go into effect. Power saving works perfectly when I remove the Index usb cable. Any ideas how to fix this other than keeping the Index usb unplugged?
I found no way of doing that in my windows 11 device manager, unfortunately. I am now considering some kind of power switch solution that powers off the Index HMD (and related usb connectivity) when I don't use it, so that it won't be necessary to disconnect and reconnect the usb cable
So the 4090 reviews are out and it's indeed quite powerful, and continues to be comically large and expensive.
But in all honesty watching the tech jesus review just made much more curious about AMD's multichip design. Really hoping they deliver, and really hoping that their RT perf is now at least on par with nvidia as well.
I wonder if this increase in per Watt performance also holds true for a possible 4060, or 4060 TI that Nvidia might release in the next year or two.This is extremely impressive IMHO:
The 4090 is 82% faster than the 3090ti when both are using the same 300W TDP.
This is the comparison I was most curious about.
On the other hand, as long as old 3000s keep selling, maybe Nvidia might just skip the budget versions to keep the prices of those cards artificially high. Of course that would still lead to a reduction in revenue, as Nvidia isn't getting any money from the resale of older cards.
OP
- Thread Starter
- #3,145
Yeah, it will be interesting to see how that plays out.
I would expect a significant increase in efficiency even at the lower tiers. Maybe a bit less, since they aren't going as wide as the 4090, but at least >60% still.
Maybe try running your specific build on https://pcpartpicker.com. It does a pretty good job showing you what the estimated system power draw will be based on the nominal TPD of each component.
You should be fine as is and especially if you end up undervolting the 4090.
Damn, after watching various reviews…I guess I'm getting a 4090. At least I have a LG 42 inch C2 to justify this purchase.
Impressive performance for 4090. Although way beyond my buying capabilities. Looking forward to have that kind of performance sooner than later for $700 or less.
I'd think so, nvidia said they improve the 4xxx cards for transient spike as well. You could always undervolt if that's not the case.
Thanks! My estimated wattage ended up being 865W (https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MQLGtn), so I guess I will try with my current 850W power supply.
Yeah, it seems a bit excessive to replace the power supply without trying if it works